Hustle's Wine on Trial

Another two-fer

2009-06-30T11:00:00.003-04:00

Vinum Cellars Chenin Vio '08 (left)
Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: Since I was buying for my wife, this seemed like a good option: right price point, recommended by Whole Foods (a Top 10 selection) and a blend of two of my wife's favorite varietals. A well-designed label helped too, since it wasn't kitschy like some of the others I've fallen for. What struck me about this was how, despite the preponderance of chenin in the blend, both grapes really seemed to come through. The nose was floral, almost approaching a pinot grigio. On the tongue, the taste seemed to go from dry initially to a middle sweetness to a dryer finish. That certainly scores high on the adventure scale, but I couldn't get over the fact that the taste seemed a little one-dimensional for my tastes. For all of its shape-shifting, there wasn't a whole lot else I could pick out. Still, a very serviceable drink.
Do-over? I'd have no problem with that
Ingredients: 80 percent chenin blanc, 20 percent viognier
Final Grade: B+

Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon '07 (right)
Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: Silly me, looking for another good-valued cab again. The price was decent enough, and their sauv had been decent enough. Plus they're big into organic farming, and I can't think of a good reason not to support that. At first glance, however, I was a little concerned with the vintage being so recent. So I don't know if the vintage had anything to do with it, but I didn't find it to be a rather unimpressive match with the porterhouse I had that night. The nose grabbed you with a powerful, slightly minty aroma. The taste was just about what you'd expect from a cab. But it failed to wow me; there wasn't anything terribly distinctive I can report back about the wine, other than being precisely what you'd expect. It was drinkable and I had no problem going back for a second glass, but it felt like there should've been more there than what was there.
Do-over? In a pinch, yes
Final Grade: C+

No Time Tempranillo '07

2009-06-17T00:43:00.003-04:00

Country: Spain
Thoughts: I was leery of the bottle from the get-go; the whole thing looks a little too polished for me (right down to the digit-style font in "No Time"). Polish often equals marketing, but the desire to try a new varietal outweighed my hesitations. And an interesting drink it was; it seemed to be a white trapped in a red body. The fruitiness was quite apparent from the start, yet it retained a mellow sort of character. It wasn't like some of the lusher pinot grigios, where the fruit flavor beats you about the head. Instead, it was more restrained, like you'd find in many other whites. It went down well and was a pleasure to drink, ending with a dry, silvery-sort of finish that I seem to get from most reds. While I can't say it was a stunner and a do-over at any price, it was a surprising delight. And that's really all we're looking for, no?
Do-over? It's one of the Whole Foods good value series, so yes (if it's still on sale)
Final Grade: B

Casa Silva Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon '06

2009-06-17T00:27:00.003-04:00

Country: Chile
Thoughts: And so begins a new milestone for the blog, when reds have come of age - for me at least - to get their own grades and categories. In the past, they've gotten neither. But starting here, we'll venture to give them the respect (or ridicule) they deserve. We stumbled upon this cab while preparing for our friend's birthday party on Monday night. While at Total Wine, I joked to my wife that I was perusing the cab aisle for a good value. But this was as close as we could get: a bottle under $20 that was rated 90ish by an outfit I'd never heard of. But seeing as we were pressed for time, that was good enough. My great failing in this whole experiment was to take notes, however, thinking I'd remember enough about it. And since alcohol and functioning brain cells tend not to go together, I'm left here typing words pretty much out of my ass. Suffice it to say, I don't remember thinking this wine was either spectacular or sorry, but seemed to be in line with the few cabs I've had. Nevertheless, and despite my promises earlier, I must give this an incomplete. How can you judge what you can't remember?
Do-over? Well, at this point, yeah.
Final Grade: INC

An answer

2009-06-03T01:23:00.002-04:00

I hope you were all able to read the second comment on yesterday's post. I want to offer my sincere thanks to Mr. Matthews for stopping by and sharing his opinion. You are always welcome here, sir.

Looking back, I believe my rhetoric was a little sharper than it needed to be. And for that, I apologize.

I agree with Mr. Matthews that Wine Spectator is an ally. We all share the same passion.

But I think Wine Spectator comes up woefully short when it comes to people new to wine. Even before I started learning about wine, I knew what Wine Spectator was and I knew it was the authority in the industry. With such brand recognition, Wine Spectator seems to be in the perfect position to offer advice to those of us feeling our way through the vineyard.

By and large, wine newbies aren't their audience, of course. But I feel they are missing a considerable segment of the wine-drinking population. I think Wine Spectator can bridge the gap between newbies and experienced wine drinkers.

The one thing I always wished I had was a beginner's guide to wine drinking. Take, for instance, 10 of the most well-known varietals out there: chardonnay, pinot grigio, riesling, sauvignon blanc, viognier, cab, merlot, zin, pinot noir, syrah. Give me a brief description of the grape and its history.

Now, using the vast repository of knowledge that Wine Spectator has, give me three wines in a range of prices that best exemplify those varietals. Give me one under $20, one under $60 and one over $60. If possible, use ones that are likely to be found in major wine stores.

Then, tell me exactly what I should be noticing, from nose to palate to finish. Like that the defining characteristic of sauv is its grassiness in the nose. Find easy-to-understand terms and give me a sense of how that can change from location to location.

A thorough, knowledgeable guide would be a boon to newbies, like myself, everywhere. Think of it like the old GM ladder (if you can forgive their current financial mess): you started off young with a Chevy, moved to Buick when you were older and then, perhaps, a Cadillac.

By providing that steppingstone, I think Wine Spectator can only build its brand awareness. When newbies feel comfortable enough to step up to the regular magazine, you'll be there for them.

Currently, Wine Spectator does not do this. And that remains my greatest frustration with their products.

Gatao Vinho Verde

2009-06-03T01:12:00.003-04:00

Country: Portugal
Thoughts: So there's a cat on the label - hard to see because of the unavoidable glare - which is why Grace the cat also appears. Plus "el gato" is Spanish for cat, so I'm guessing the Portuguese add an "a" in there for some reason. This wine had a similar problem as the white below: poor labeling which left me unsure what I was drinking. Perhaps it was because it came right after trying the rather dry V-Solo, but the sweetness in the Gatao hit me like a roundhouse. "Jarring" may be about the right word for it; it seemed to fall just shy of riesling. The nose offered no clue either, as it was quiet. And the finish was, well, unusual. After each sip - and I mean every one - it burned going down the hatch. Again, that could be some sort of reaction with what I ate or drank prior to that, but it was not a fun experience. If my wife likes it, perhaps it's worth getting again and retrying. Maybe my impressions would change... maybe not.
Do-over? Not unless a fire extinguisher is handy
Final Grade: D+

A two-fer

2009-06-03T00:55:00.004-04:00

V-Solo Verdejo (left)
Country: Spain
Thoughts: I've been blessed by getting good wine after good wine at Whole Foods, and at great prices too. Perhaps it caught up with me here. I was under the impression that this was some kind of secretive blend; there was no indication anywhere just what kind of wine this was. By the nose and taste alone, a good chunk - if not all - seemed to be sauvignon blanc. The telltale grassiness was more than a little evident; and if someone like me can pick it out, then anyone can. But it lacked a certain crispness, and the finish was rather predictable. An average wine with so little available information? I'll look elsewhere in the bargain aisle, thanks.
Do-over? Not for me
Final Grade: C-

Legado Malbec (right)
Country: Argentina
Thoughts: I think I've gotten enough reds under my belt to be able to assign a letter grade. So this is our virgin entry: I know that Argentinian malbecs are a popular choice for consumers at the moment, and I've been lucky to have one that I would gladly drink again. This one, however, didn't measure up quite so well. It's been several days since I tried it, so the details have become a little foggy. But I just remember thinking that I wish this wine would jump up and grab me and give me a reason to get into it, but it never did. That previous malbec had a good mouthfeel and an inviting bouquet. This had neither, at least not to the level of the previous wine. Sorry I can't be more specific with it other than to say I've had better and fully intend to have better in the near future.
Do-over? Not of this label, no
Final Grade: C

EDIT: Thanks to Dave McIntyre's always-interesting Washington Post column, we've learned that verdejo is its own varietal. This particular grape "celebrates the commoner," he writes, though I fear this example is nearer to flipping the bird.

Where have I been? And why am I back?

2009-06-02T00:16:00.002-04:00

Some of you know me. Those that do realize the tumultuous few months it's been, particularly as it pertains to the old professional life.

I didn't intend to stop writing about wine; it just happened. Then again, how many events happen to us that really were expected?

Nevertheless, I was nudged to peck the keyboard again by my brother-in-law and by a more unseemly force. During a recent vacation, I passed the idle time by reading A Very Good Year by Mike Weiss, which traces a vintage of Ferrari-Carano's Fume Blanc from vine to table.

While I won't give away the conclusion, it again reinforced something that had been nagging at me for some time: Wine Spectator is full of shit.

Read their wine reviews. How does anyone make sense of that silliness? What relevance is there for us who are not sommeliers, who merely desire for a worthwhile drink from time to time? Where is the thought that maybe, just maybe, you can pay less than $20 for a damn good bottle of wine?

Yes, they do their top values list or what have you. But it's such a small selection of what they review, and they're reviewing to a different standard.

I do agree that varietal characteristics should be of some importance. If you buy a sauv, there should be some sort of representation of that grape in the bottle. I readily admit that I fall short in these areas, particularly as it relates to the less-popular whites and most reds.

But the most important question is never answered: Is it a good drink? Is it worth buying again?

My answers are subjective, just as Spectator's numbers are. But I like to think I'm representative of some segment of the population that thinks, you know what? I don't much care about fig and honeysuckle and whatever inane terms they use to describe a wine. I just want something enjoyable. (Plus I don't ask for a fee for the privilege of reading what I think.)

Wine doesn't have to be as hard as certain places make it. You either like it or you don't, and we're not going to agree on every grade or every synopsis.

So here's the difference: I don't portray myself as an authority. I'm one man with an idea of what he likes and what he doesn't. I try to give as full a picture of the wine as I can in terms that anyone can understand. But it's just one person's opinion.

You could get into the conflict-of-interest argument, as the book does. I buy my own wine. No one is clamoring for me to sample their product. Frankly, I hope it never gets to that point; I'm sick of most sports enough as it is. I'd hate to tire of wine too.

I think my problem with WS is more of a conflict of perception. Let me make this clear: They are wine experts. They know of what they speak.

But their magazine and the way it carries itself is very off-putting. It glorifies the Grand Crus and French first-growths that most of us will never have the means to get our hands on, whether monetarily or simply as a matter of availability. In every edition I've bought, I see long articles about charity events or wine auctions that, again, are beyond the reach of most of us.

It sells an image, a lifestyle that mirrors that of the products it reviews: Wine is luxurious, for people in the know, for the affluent, a way to distinguish one's self from the riffraff of Bud Light drinkers.

It is my firm belief that wine need not be that way.

And that's why I'm here. Wine can be discussed in layman's terms; it is not the province of the rich or knowledgeable. Wine can be good even if it doesn't adhere to strict interpretations. Wine can be a good way to blow off some steam.

I'm confident Wine Spectator does not subscribe to this line of thinking. Which explains why I will not be subscribing to them.

I'll be back tomorrow to detail some of my offseason exploits and write about a few wines I've had recently.

Thanks for sticking with me.

Seacliff Sauvignon Blanc '06

2009-03-03T00:32:00.003-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: I was listening to the 3 Wine Guys' podcast a week or so ago when one of them said something that struck me. When they started that little adventure, he said, they were picking out wines that appealed to them. But over the course of time, as they became more knowledgeable, having varietally correct wines became just as important. So this Seacliff, purchased during the binge at World Market some time ago, came off as just another wine. Yes, it wasn't bad and yes, I'd consider doing it over again. But there wasn't one characteristic of sauv that I was able to pick out. The nose was kind of fresh, but not in the way I'd come to expect with a sauv. The taste was dry with big hints of orange, but nothing in the way of what I'd come to expect from a sauv. So I suppose I'm at a crossroads. Do I want to keep tasting wines as I have been? Or is it time to incorporate whether a wine held true to its characteristic? Maybe it's just time to give weight to both. I mean, I probably wouldn't have guessed this was a sauv; I might have said a shitty pinot. But in the end, the wine has to be good and those standards over in the right-hand column still apply. I still want to be wowed, but I guess now I want a greater context, too.
Do-over? Perhaps
Final Grade: C+

Gaetano D'Aquino Pinot Grigio '06

2009-03-02T00:02:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: It's good to be back. A rough work schedule and bouts with the typical winter colds prevented us from digging into the wine bin over the past few weeks. We hope that can change now that we're mostly over the colds - we hope, anyway. You'll also notice that the pic is considerably different; this was a chance to me to show off the latest computer purchase, a copy of Photoshop Elements (bought for a completely different purpose than this). The shadow was created by me; and, admittedly, this was done pretty half-assed. There's a lot wrong with it aesthetically, or at least it seems so to me. But I'm not at work and I've got other things to do tonight. So you get what you get. Perhaps by now you've noticed I'm beating around the bush. Truth is, there's not much to report about this wine. There was nothing I could detect on the nose. And there seemed to be nothing to the taste. The only comparison I could make - and anyone who knows me knows that there is nothing more damning than this - was that it tasted like Coors Light. You know, the whole sex in a canoe thing. So I've tried to gussie this thing up a little by prattering on about nothing, which seems wholly apropos.
Do-over? Nope
Final Grade: D

Terra Barossa Eden Valley Pinot Grigio '07

2009-03-01T23:50:00.003-05:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: As D.C. gets pummeled with a snowstorm - five inches or better, supposedly - there was no better time to jump back in and get with the wine tastings. The poor fridge is bursting at the seams, for heaven's sake. While on a recent assignment, I happened to be in a town that had a nice little wine shop, or so I'd read. When I found some time to slip away, I did so. And this one caught my eye. I thought, hmmm, a pinot from Australia; you don't see many of those. (If I had any sort of memory, I might have recalled that, in fact, I had already done a pinot from Australia.) But I came at this one from a different angle: Could I taste the difference between this, the Aussie version, and the other pinots I've tried - which, with a handful of exceptions, came from the U.S. or Italy? Not only could I taste a difference, it almost seemed like this was a different grape altogether. The Lindemans largely held true to form; this did not. In many ways, from nose to tongue, it had more elements of a sauvignon blanc than a pinot. This was fruit backward, to twist a phrase, with hints of stoniness and earthiness coming here and there. It was restrained; the rush of flavor never really happened. Additionally, it didn't seem to have a lot of structure to it. The slight earthiness was there, and that was about it. Still, it didn't taste bad, and was considerably different than the other pinots I've had. An example of extreme terroir, perhaps?
Do-over? It would depend on my mood
Final Grade: C+

Velt.1 Grüner Veltliner '07

2009-02-16T01:05:00.004-05:00

Country: Austria
Thoughts: Just prior to the Oregon trip, I came across multiple references to some wine called Gruner Veltliner (and I'm sorry I can't recreate the umlaut in the text here). I think I saw one in an article somewhere, another was a selection on a wine list that I didn't get to. The name kind of stuck in my head, and I meant to look for some in Oregon but didn't get the chance. Once we returned - I and my suitcase, my wife and her cold - I had to do a lot of dinner purchasing for the following week. One night, after a mix-up in communication, I was left waiting while our order was prepared; I took a walk two doors down to Whole Foods. After perusing the regular wine area, I went to a nearby row with all their specials. There, at last, was the wine I'd been reading so much about. Ever-helpful Wiki says that it's a grape that doesn't grow anywhere beyond Austria and the Czech Republic - not exactly Burgundy and Napa. And, in truth, the wine didn't disappoint; you know how I hate building up unfounded hype in my own head. But this wine seemed to have different characteristics of more well-known wines all rolled into one. It had a bit of chard taste to it and there was some definite sauv grassiness to it. The first whiff included a small hint of fruit but mostly there was a burnt smell to it; not in an obnoxious way, mind you, but enough that it had a distinct bouquet. On the tongue, that burnt quality morphed slightly; instead of burnt, it was a peculiar kind of dry. But the smell and taste were close enough (if, in fact, you can really establish those two as a pair) that they seemed to be relates. It almost seemed like I was tasting a little dirt - and I mean that in the most kind way possible. It was like sauv that way, only more intense; the earthiness of the sauv to the fifth degree. It was laid back otherwise, perhaps with a bit of fruitiness, again in a similar proportion as the nose was. The finish was long and strong, going from a brief dryness to a honey that held on. It was an interesting wine in that the best word I could find for it was savory, as in that there was little sweetness per se to be had. Like an anti-pinot grigio. Yet it was a very compelling wine and the radical departure from what I'm used to gives it a high score on the adventure scale. And it's a great value, too.
Do-over? I could definitely see that
Final Grade: B+

di Lenardo Pinot Grigio '07

2009-02-12T01:39:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: Like the last batch of posts, this one comes a few days late as well. These wines were all sampled in Oregon; I've gone over some of the reasons we didn't get to them earlier. This time, there's less of an excuse other than sheer tiredness; that's a long time in the plane from Portland to Phoenix and back to D.C. But now that we're back to a normal schedule, I anticipate more timely updates going forward. So di Lenardo... I gotta be honest, I tried this but I really didn't want to. I don't know if I'm bored with pinots or what; maybe I'm just cranky. Or maybe it's because it's been coming up on two months since I had a good one. Or maybe I just know what to expect... hell, I don't know. But this one did little to reverse the trend, though I freely admit it may have been partly my fault. This one came across as less fruity than I would have expected; it almost seemed dry. I should note I tried this at a family lunch and, having not had caffeine, I guzzled some Coke before the wine arrived. I thought I had adequately cleansed the palate, but that may not have been the case. Suffice it to say this wine didn't excite me either, but I'm willing to withhold judgment until I get a more reliable sampling. If I can find it on the east coast, great; if not, it may have to wait until summer when we return to Oregon.
Do-over? TBD
Final Grade: Incomplete

Chateau Haut Rian '07

2009-02-12T01:31:00.004-05:00

Country: France

Thoughts: I'd had great success in the one wine I tried whose name sounded pretty close to a much more famous brand. I thought this one might wind up in the same classification; Haut Rian does sound a lot like Haut Brion, no? Instead, I think I just got a poor knockoff. OK, maybe that's a bit harsh, as this wine was eminently drinkable; but it wasn't the smashing success like the Haut-Belian was. This Bordeaux had elements of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc; the nose was lemony - now that is a new one for me - and slightly grassy as we might expect with a sauv. The taste was what one would expect from chard with another light dose of grassiness as well as some lemon. I didn't record any kind of finish in my notes, so I'll take it was unremarkable and add that as another strike. (I just must be in a foul mood.) So that's it in a nutshell: Drinkable? Yes. Exciteable? No.

Do-over? Meh

Final Grade: B-

Hedges Red Mountain '04

2009-02-12T01:18:00.002-05:00

Country: USA

Region: Washington

Thoughts: I've always had pretty good luck with white blends - hell, even the one red blend I tried - I'm willing to give most of them a go. I wasn't quite sure what to expect with this, since I have little experience with cab and none with merlot (though that has since changed). Thankfully, I was delighted. The nose was fresh and inviting, the taste sturdy yet smooth. My perennial fear with reds is that I'll have to force down a few swallows of overly tannic wine, like I'm drinking cold liquid metal. That wasn't the case here; the tannins made themselves known, certainly, but they weren't overbearing. The finish was surprisingly crisp and light, something I'd expect from a white. It was a solid, solid drink and definitely a do-over - if I rated that sort of thing with reds. But I don't. At least not until I know what the hell I'm talking about.
Ingredients: 62 percent merlot, 33 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent cabernet franc, 2 percent petit verdot

Do-over? N/A

Final Grade: N/A

Barnard & Griffin Fume Blanc '06

2009-02-07T18:57:00.002-05:00

Country: USA

Region: Washington

Thoughts: I've had good experiences in the past with fume blanc; unfortunately, this wasn't one of them. The wine itself was fine; I have no qualms with it by itself. But my issue was that it is what it is, and it scored exceptionally low on the adventure scale. The nose hinted of the dryness; there was almost a sheen to it, if that's possible to deduce from merely smelling the thing. The taste was solid too, but very one-dimensional. The dryness wasn't as severe as the nose would have indicated. And to top it off, there was no finish to speak of. That may have been my biggest bone of contention. I mean, when you try a wine, there should be a payoff; the nose should get a workout, the mind should get a workout - from detecting all the flavors that dance around the tongue - and the pleasure center in the brain should get a workout too, from the finish and taking in the body of work. This, though a perfectly acceptable wine on most fronts, failed in most of those endeavors. Hence the low grade.

Do-over? Doubtful

Final Grade: C+

Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon '06

2009-02-07T18:51:00.002-05:00

Country: USA

Region: Napa

Thoughts: As my father-in-law and I decided to give this one a whirl, I got a quick history lesson. Apparently it was cabs that put Napa on the map in the first place; so, really, how could I go wrong with such a wine? And, luckily, I didn't. The nose was big and loud, almost minty, but you could tell that it was a powerful deal from the start - though I think most cabs have that characteristic. I've had the occasional cab in the past and found that too much tannin was a turn-off for me; thankfully, this didn't have it. It tasted powerful but also restrained, and not overly aggressive. The acidity was high, but it faded to a nice, smooth finish. I don't know how much it costs for a bottle. But if it weren't terribly expensive, I could see myself growing to enjoy glass after glass of this wine.

Do-over? N/A

Final Grade: N/A

Andeluna Torrontes '07

2009-02-07T18:38:00.002-05:00

Country: Argentina

Thoughts: Like the writeups below this, this review is also a day late. However, I have a much better excuse; the room where the computer is at my in-laws' house also now doubles as a nursery for my young nephew, Drake. See, Drake's been feeling under the weather lately; he's not been sleeping much and coughing a bit. So I've done my best to keep this room free and clear so he can get his necessary rest. At his mom's urging, I'm writing now with Drake in the room - and contentedly talking to himself - and she's certain he'll nod off soon. In the meantime, I'll ask him just how I should write this. Or maybe not, since he's just dozed off; I'm on my own. For this wine, in short, the promise that the nose held didn't match up with the taste. I went with the torrontes since I'd seen it pop up in several things I've read lately. The bouquet was very refreshing and very floral; I can honestly say it was among the best I've had. But on the tongue, it was dry and crisp with some lemon notes, but that seemed to be pretty much it. The finish was long and delightful too, but I just wish there was something more substantive in the middle. With a bit more adventure in the taste, I could easily see this being a Grade-A wine. But, be that as it may...

Do-over? Yeah, I could do it again

Final Grade: B+

BV Coastal Estates Chardonnay '07

2009-02-07T18:29:00.003-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: I owe an apology to you, all three of my readers. This wine was tried some time ago - on the night of the Super Bowl, actually - but in trying to get ready for our pending Oregon trip (where this is being written from), actually posting these reviews slipped through the cracks. I can only think of a handful of times when something like this has happened before, and certainly never to this extent. You'll have a better effort from me in the future, I promise. So this wine falls into the most tested class of our little experiment, California chardonnays. It just seems like they're so prevalent whenever I visit the wine store. But we press on... this one had a very light nose, but had interesting hints of vanilla, strange though that may be. Generally it was smoother than most and had a bit of butter - ugh - at the end, but it wasn't horribly overpowering. Despite all of that, it ranked among the better chards we've tried, particularly among those from the Golden State.
Do-over? I could go either way
Final Grade: B

Ruffino Orvieto Classico '07

2009-02-07T11:35:00.004-05:00

Country: Italy

Thoughts: Digging into the archives, we had a great experience with an Orvieto Classico back when my in-laws came to visit us. Now, on the eve of going to visit them - and yes, this one is being posted way late too - we went for another one, and this one was a much different experience. The wine may have been too cold when we tried it; at any rate, the characteristics of the nose were quite difficult to discern. On the tongue, the wine was a one-trick pony; as wonderful as that trick was, it was hard to get over that it was the only thing it had going for it. The wine was unusual in that the honey notes were evident from start to finish; the intensity picked up on the finish. So while that made for a wonderful tasting wine, I was hoping for something beyond merely the honey. So, in this instance, I'll take the former version over the latter version.

Do-over? It was a good drink, but doubtful

Final Grade: B

Clear Bottle Bay Pinot Grigio '07

2009-01-25T23:21:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: I don't know what's going on, but we've had terrible luck with pinot grigios lately. Sure, when you buy for value you can't always expect a winner; still, even by chance, it seems we'd have come across a hidden gem by now. Alas, the streak continues. The Clear Bottle Bay - which really isn't a geographic location - was drinkable enough despite my reservations. First off, there was no nose to speak of. The wine was kept in the wine fridge and opened straight from there, so too cold a temperature shouldn't have been a concern. The wine itself was too mellow and it was well nigh impossible to pick out even one flavor. Sure, it was a pinot, but I'd love to tell you what characteristics came through. I can't. The finish, however was nice; a light honey came through. I think it was honey anyway, since I was expecting a lame finish and it caught me completely off guard. But it was a surprisingly good end to an otherwise undistinguised wine. Yet I cannot recommend a wine solely on how it finishes...
Do-over? Doubtful
Final Grade: C+

Ironstone Vineyards Obsession Symphony '07

2009-01-25T23:11:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: This was another of the pickups on sale at World Market. I can't say why, but I kept coming back to this wine; I wasn't sure if I should get it, but something compelled me to. Perhaps it was the chance to try a different grape. The Symphony - according to the label, confirmed by Wiki - is a hybrid of Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris. It was planted some 25 years ago and is usually used in blends. However, I must say this grape stands quite well on its own; I'd like to think it's intuition that kept me coming back to this wine, but I probably know better and should realize it was just dumb luck. The nose was delightful, very floral and fresh, and had a good bit of staying power. Too often, I realize I need to take full advantage of bouquets when I can; the smell fades quickly. This, to its credit, didn't. On the tongue it was slightly sweet - there was a trace of some flavors below the surface, but not enough to really quantify - and very smooth. It finished dry with a hint of grapiness, but not so much that it was a distraction. My wife, helpfully enough, described it as a combination of viognier, riesling and pinot grigio; if you like any of those, you'd be in for a real treat.
Do-over? Absolutely
Final Grade: A-

What could have been...

2009-01-25T23:08:00.003-05:00

Sigh. I was all set to have a new wine to add the burgeoning collection of reds; I had heard so much about beaujolais noveau that I thought, at some point, I simply must give it a try.

Today was the day; or so I thought.

We picked up a bottle at Costco and were planning on trying it this evening. At least until I brought the groceries inside, and the bottle fell and split into a million pieces on the front porch.

It was on sale, so no big loss. I'll pick one up this week and I'll give it a try then.

I'm happier now, but man that pissed me off when it happened.

Balducci's Pinot Grigio '07

2009-01-24T23:34:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: Tonight was Below Average Italian Pinot Grigio Night at the Hustle house, apparently... It's made and bottled for Balducci's, the DC/New York deli chain. So it'd be wise not to expect Opus, you know? Still, I was hoping for something better. The nose here was quite dry, which made for an interesting opening salvo. But from there it went downhill, unfortunately; the taste was on the dry side, but it seemed very restrained to me. Perhaps that's good in some instances, but not this one; it just didn't feel like there was a whole lot there to work with. Topping it off, the finish was rough, with a burnt or charred taste to it. It mellowed after a few sips and took a few steps closer to passable, but the best wines shouldn't be like that. I want to fall in love from the first sip and find myself disappointed when the bottle's finished. Clearly, that wasn't the case here.
Do-over? Nope
Final Grade: C-

Pinot Evil Pinot Grigio

2009-01-24T23:23:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: Yes, I know, I fell for the catchy label again. But you have to admit, Pinot Evil (and the requisite drawing of the three monkeys) is pretty clever. Fortunately, my wife and I are happy to take one for the team; you may admire the label from afar, while not actually having to sample this beast. But really, it's my own fault; it was on sale at World Market for a really paltry sum. Furthermore, I failed to read the label to see 1) it was non-vintage and 2) it was marked "Indicazione geografica tipica," which isn't the most stringent of Italian labels. So there's no one to blame but me. The bouquet was quite undistinguished; it smelled like any other pinot I've ever had. The taste, however, was different; jarring, in fact. The taste was overly grapy, almost like I was having Saturday night communion (at least at the services where they serve a wine alternative). The finish was equally unattractive, turning into a tinny dryness before the sip had finally come to its end. Sigh. Maybe one of these days I'll learn...
Do-over? Slim and none, and Slim just left town
Final Grade: D+

MonteVina Pinot Grigio '07

2009-01-19T02:00:00.004-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: Ah, yes, it's upkeep time at the ol' homestead. My wife concocted a plan for her four-day weekend (must be nice) to redo our mid-level bathroom. Wallpaper is out, forest green is in. (At least I think it was forest green.) My wife worked valiantly to get the wallpaper down, which came in sheets at first but later more resembled confetti. Still, kudos to her for her work over the past two days. (And yes, I was able to lend a hand in spots.) After she surrendered to the more difficult areas of the wallpaper, she made a Home Depot run to get a little scoring device and the chemical to remove the old stuff. She pit-stopped at the supermarket too, and randomly grabbed a new bottle. Hey, I was up for it. We got an unremarkable pinot in most areas, unusual in some. The citrus both on the nose and in the taste was abnormally heavy; it was not a detriment to the wine, mind you, but it did seem more pronounced than most. It carried all the way to the finish, which also included a late tinge of honey that hung on for quite a while. Still, it seemed rather one-dimensional, and there are a lot better options out there.
Do-over? Nah
Final Grade: C+

Big House White '06

2009-01-11T23:36:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: My wife raved over it, so you know it's got an automatic in. Unfortunately, I didn't get the same vibe. The nose was non-existent; I may have caught a whiff of something faint, but it wasn't enough to register. Given that it takes seven different grapes to make this blend, I found that kind of odd. On the tongue, it started sweet and finished dry; I tried to find some flavors to pick out, but there weren't any that were terribly perceptible. As a result, I found this one kind of bland and unexciting. My wife found it to be similar to a pinot, and I would tend to agree. But I also wonder: If you went to all this trouble to find a combination that would mimic a pinot, why not just use that grape instead?
Ingredients: Percentages weren't readily available, but the blend includes Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Malvasia Bianco, Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli and Marsanne
Do-over? I'm certain I could find better
Final Grade: C

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2009-01-11T18:32:00.002-05:00

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River Crest Vintners Pinot Gris '07

2009-01-11T18:15:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: So this is the second that my wonderful brother- and sister-in-law sent as part of the ongoing Christmas gift. And again, the thanks flow from here to Idaho that you've added a bit to keep us going. This package arrived just this week; it went into the fridge yesterday and was ready for consumption this evening. (And, a small note on the pic: I know it's hard to see, but the pic was taken with my favorite coasters. All four have scenes I clipped from Golf Digest. So, with high temperatures scheduled for the low 20s later this week, I steel myself be chanting, over and over again, "Think spring. Think spring. Think golf." Rinse and repeat.) Anyway, the wine was a rather typical pinot grigio/pinot gris with a bit of a twist. The nose and initial taste were precisely what one would expect from such a grape: citrusy, fruity and all of that. The difference was that the taste, for me, inevitably started off sweet and finished dry. Like if I just gave it a few seconds on the tongue, it would turn dry; the finish started well before it went down the hatch though. Interesting. It gets a good grade because, well, I love PG.

Do-over? Why not?

Final Grade: B

Chateau Haut-Belian Entre-Deux-Mers '06

2009-01-11T00:15:00.004-05:00

Country: France
Thoughts: My word, 11 days since I tried a wine? Sad but true. Instead, I was preoccupied with cleaning out the beer in the fridge and enjoying the two bottles of Gentleman Jack that I got for Christmas. Hey, I still like testing wine, but Gentleman Jack is a fine drink as well. But, Saturday night, after working a bit during the day and watching competitive and uncompetitive games later on, we dipped back into the wine fridge. We finished off the second bottle of Lion's Crest; a second shipment was already waiting for a home in the fridge. Since it wasn't at the optimum temperature, I pored through the selections and came up with this. I think my wife was right when she said I got this across the street at Whole Foods; I honestly can't remember. But I do think I picked it up because of the name. While not the same, it is reminiscent of the famous French winemaker, Chateau Haut-Brion. Having read The Wine Bible - and if you have any interest in this subject, you should be too - I remember Ms. MacNeil saying that many French vintners offer other, lesser products under different but similar names (lesser in relation to the vineyard's famous wines, which means they aren't as good as them but are still miles from sucking). So that's how this landed in our abode. The wine itself was excellent; my only major complaint was a smoky, harsh nose. But if you could get past that, you were rewarded with an excellent wine. Sweet and dry were well balanced, and a hint of citrus could be found as well. It was a superb sipping wine, a delightful drink one that you could easily pass the time with. In some respects, it was almost too mellow, so it was low on the adventure scale. But it seems downright wrong to penalize such a solid wine for such a superficial reason. So I'll let the letter grade speak for itself and recommend this as a super value.
Do-over? Unquestionably
Final Grade: A-

Lion's Crest Chardonnay '07

2008-12-31T19:56:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: Much to get to. My wife, undeterred by the Huskies' 0-fer season, was kind enough to pose with the night's wine, one of the final of 2008. It really was an all-in-the-family thing, since the wine was shipped from her brother and sister-in-law, Mark and Maya and our cool-ass nephew, 4 month-old Drake. (Really, you guys were too kind to us this Christmas. We will make it up to you... uh, sometime later.) As you can guess, they were sweet and sent us some wine and, they said, couldn't wait to see the review. So here it is. My wife was pretty high on it; I poured her a little sample. She swished it around the glass, gave it a good sniff, took a sip and excitedly handed the thing back - she wanted a fuller glass. Me? I was a little skeptical at first; the label indicated that it was produced by an outfit out of the City of Angels. And when I think of L.A., winemaking is not what I think of first. There are many things I think of, but it's probably best to leave that be... Anyway, the chard had a decidedly fruity nose, one that initially caught me off guard. The chards I've had give away their characteristics quickly in the nose; but this one was a curveball. On the tongue, it was dry, as you'd expect. It was a solid, solid drink; while low on the adventure scale, it would be a wine that I hold up as a wonderful example of what a chard can and should be. Not oaky, not buttery, just solid and enjoyable. And, for any wine, that scores as a win in my book.
Do-over? Yup
Final Grade: B+

Carta Vieja Clasico Sauvignon Blanc '08

2008-12-24T00:02:00.002-05:00

Country: Chile

Thoughts: This is the first wine we've had from the 2008 vintage. My first assumption was that the wine - unless it was somehow spectacular - needed more aging. But I see Wine Spectator (in one of the few pages on its site you don't have to pay to see) recommends drinking Chilean whites immediately upon their release. I'll trust their judgment, I suppose, but the Carta Vieja needed something different, whether aging, better weather or any other number of factors. I wish I could generalize and say I'm not a fan of Chilean sauvs, but the four examples I had really ran the gamut, from the excellent Cono Sur to the abominable Montes. This fell somewhere in between. The nose was rough and tumble; a little harsh - my wife's word - and earthy and tough from the get-go. Initially, the taste was solid; it began sweet with those telltale earthiness and dryness late. But the wine didn't hold up; by the end, it was all earthiness and all dryness and neither were very appealing. I suppose if I could've found some other flavor that this wine could have hung its hat on, I wouldn't be so down on it. The gold standard in wine, for me, is a drink that's adventurous and so compelling that I have to keep coming back. The key is that it's adventurous and compelling after each taste; with the Carta, it felt like each sip brushed a little more of the surface away, revealing a less-pretty underside.

Do-over? I would not be in favor of it

Final Grade: C+

Stival Pinot Grigio '07

2008-12-19T23:45:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy

Thoughts: If you don't mind, I'll skip the inane one-liners and jokes for the night. Just not into it when the real world intrudes, as it sometimes does. A former wrestler that I used to cover was a victim in a most unspeakable crime; though his passing is a sad event for me, I grieve more for the kids and coaches and family who are forever changed because of this. I pray for them all. But I've made a commitment here and, with a heavy heart (and some internal debate about whether a post here is even appropriate), we press on. This wine was a treat from beginning to end. A strong, vibrant nose, even with a touch of honey. The honey came through initially, but it mellowed into a dry, enjoyable drink. But, for me, this kind of flipped pinots on their head; that telltale citrus taste was dominant, not the sweet fruitiness. The finish was more honey, though lighter than the nose and in the initial taste. A very different and interesting wine.

Do-over? Yes

Final Grade: A-

Apropos anniversary post: Wakefield Promised Land Unwooded Chardonnay '07

2008-12-16T23:05:00.005-05:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: Wow, can you believe it's been a year since we started this thing? It started 365 days ago with a simple mission statement: "Simply, I want a place I can go back to and find what I liked when I'm in need of a glass." If you've been with us for any length of time, you know it's more than just that. Each wine we've tried, all 133 of them, has a story: Tried with friends or family or during a special event or just relaxing at home. I tried to make that point with little anecdotes here and there. It's amazing to me how this has grown; I don't mean in terms of readership - it's not exactly WashingtonPost.com, but it never was about that anyway - but how my curiosity about wine has increased. I recently added a link on the side there for Snooth. I posted an introductory note in their forum that described it like this: "One bottle turned into another. Which led to me wondering how a pinot was different than a sauv. Which led to me wondering how an Oregon pinot was different than an Italian pinot, and how a Cali sauv was different than an Australian sauv. Which further led to me starting a blog so I could keep track of what I liked." My wine knowledge has grown exponentially, yet I know I'm far from an expert. Is it the promised land? Not yet, but maybe in a few years. So thanks to all of you for playing along; I won't go through the whole list like I did back with Wine 100, but the sentiment and deep appreciation to all remains. Anyway, on with it: This was a curious pick from Whole Foods, where I stopped to ensure I'd have something new to write about for tonight's special happenings. Really, in the whole Australia section, there were three different unoaked chardonnays - with label specifically saying so - that I could have tried. This one, however, caught my attention first, so it made the ride home with me. (Plus it had the most unusual description of being unwooded, which invites all manner of dick jokes. I'll leave it to you to make up your own.) The nose was powerful and evident from the start; I had barely gotten the screw cap off when the wine announced its presence. Upon closer inspection, it was exactly what you'd expect: flowery with a hint of fruitiness. Initially, the wine had a dose of sweetness on the tongue, but it dried out quickly. Proportionality was always maintained, however, and I never felt like I was sucking a lemon. The finish was also dry in that sparkly sort of way. It's a good sipper of a wine, one that can be enjoyed over the course of an evening (though it's good enough that it probably won't last very long). Despite the overpowering nose, which wasn't in line with how mellow the wine itself was, it was a rather enjoyable drink. It's chardonnay, the way it oughta be.
Do-over? Right price, right taste, so yes
Final Grade: B+

Folonari Pinot Grigio '07

2008-12-14T00:11:00.002-05:00

Country: Italy

Thoughts: As we've gone over several times in the past, eastern Pennsylvania - my homeland, but really it applies to the whole of Pennsylvania - is not, nor has it ever been, wine country. I should have realized this when I tried this latest drink. I was out a Christmas party for my dad's side of the family; we held the function at a little bar/restaurant situated along one of the roads that leads into town. Yuengling was on tap, of course, but they also had Warsteiner and an Italian beer, so maybe it was worth a chance. As it turned out, the chance paid off only in being able to add another wine to the blog. Certainly, not all of the problems with the Folonari were directly the wine's fault; it came straight out of the fridge where it was quite cold, negating any nose it might have otherwise had. The subpar taste, however, is the wine's fault, and we take great issue with that. There were hits and (mostly) misses of the telltale fruit, but the best way I can describe is the difference between television on an old, black-and-white set and color television. Even a run-of-the-mill TV produces a superb picture these days, but the Folonari left me feeling like I was trying, and failing, to adjust the rabbit ears on a B&W set. There was a shell of fruitiness there, like maybe it had once been there and evaporated. Even the finish was rough, an unhappy ending to an unhappy drink. If a standard pinot is a lush rainforest, this was barren wasteland. It survives the ignominy of an "F" grade only because I was able to soldier through the glass.

Do-over? Uh, no

Final Grade: D-

Christmas party special: Picpoul de Pinet Hugues Bielieu '07

2008-12-10T22:12:00.002-05:00

Country: France
Thoughts: I've long since gotten over the embarrassment of taking a photo of a bottle. Sometimes it's not an ideal situation - others may look at me strangely, but that's fine by me - but I do a wine blog and damn if I ain't gonna take it seriously. Fortunately, everyone's been kind enough to play along so far, from bartenders to waiters to my wife's colleagues, who took turns working 30-minute shifts at the bar so all could be hydrated during the annual Christmas party. Really, it was a no-lose deal; serve up drinks and enjoy the view (the floor that hosted the party had a wall of windows to an eye-level view of the Capitol dome). So with that in mind, we took the opportunity to add a freebie to the list; most any free wine should be an automatic A, but we have standards around here. And this was a toughie, right from the start; there were three phrases on the label that all plausibly could've been the name of the wine. Coteaux de Languedoc? (Nope, that's the appellation.) Hugues Bielieu, a little further under the first phrase? (Nope, a Google search shows that's the second half of the name.) Picpoul de Pinet? (Ding ding ding.) So apparently the name has something to do with the grape; I figured, like most French wines, it was simply a blend that had been in use for centuries, but I can't seem to find anything that indicates it's more than one grape. According to K&L, picpoul means "lip stinger," and that would be apt here. There was a certain bite to it, almost like when you take a gulp of Coke and push your tongue to the roof of your mouth, except not quite as severe. It almost seemed bubbly, yet the wine was still. It was dry and slightly puckering, though not in an overpowering way. I thought the wine would get better the more I tried it, and indeed my taste buds became accustomed. It was a decent enough wine, particularly after getting past the first few sips. My biggest gripe, however, was the distinct lack of any bouquet whatsoever.
Do-over? It gets some hits on CheapWineRatings.com, so who can argue with that?
Final Grade: B

Chateau Coucheroy Pessac-Leognan '06

2008-11-27T00:45:00.003-05:00

Country: France
Thoughts: This one was buried on the bottom row of the wine fridge. I don't know how it got lost down there and I don't remember buying it, but it seemed like a fine opportunity to give thanks for the chance to try and write about wine. Obviously there are more important things to be thankful for - a loving family, an incredible wife, a solid roof over our heads - and this is just one of many items. So thank you vintners and thank you technology! About this one: It's the rare wine you can smell from a mile away. I made no specific effort to get a whiff of the cork, it just happened; I didn't try to preview the nose when I brought the wine in from the kitchen, it just happened. So I did have a hint. When I went in for a closer inspection, the nose came alive with a strong dryness - so strong that I could only get one crack it before the sniffer was overwhelmed. On the tongue, it was smooth and the dryness from the nose held up; there was an undertone of grapiness, but it was moderate enough not to compete with the dryness. "It's like a mellow sauvignon blanc accented by a hint of sweetness," I wrote. There's good reason for that, I suppose, since the blend is mostly sauv with a little semillon for good measure. Before I started this grand experiment, I had a pre-formed idea of what a white wine would taste like; to me, this wine epitomizes that ideal. It's a solid drink and one I wouldn't hesitate to get again - if I remembered where I got it in the first place.
Ingredients: 90 percent sauvignon blanc, 10 percent semillon
Do-over? I would have no problem with that
Final Grade: B+

Covey Run Gewurztraminer '05

2008-11-24T00:15:00.003-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: This wine sat in the fridge for a long time; it predated the fridge, I think. So I left it to my wife to pick out a wine, and this is what she came up with, a Washington gewurzwhateverthehellitis. Wiki comes through, as usual, to explain how this grape got its, uh, challenging name. And I, apparently mistaken, thought it was pronounced Gur-wurs-TRAM-in-er; my wife tells me it's Gur-Wurs-tra-MEEN-er. Not like I'm German and know how to sound out this stuff... Anyway, I don't know much about gewurztraminer, heretofore known as that grape, but I know it's on the sweeter end with rieslings. "It's a great apertif," my wife said, again showing that her considerable vocabulary skills. She said apertif as I was taking my first sip; in a moment of alliteration, my first thought was "apple." That's what came out to me in the wine; the nose was similar to your average pinot grigio, but the taste lacked that dominant citrus taste. What was left, then, seemed to be in the same ballpark as apple juice. So my wife was right, it'd be a fine pre-dinner drink; though I liked the taste, I bumped the grade down for a lack of adventurousness. Still, it was pretty solid and something new to me and to our grand experiment here.

Do-over? In the right situation, yes

Final Grade: B-

Black Mountain Pinot Noir '07

2008-11-23T01:16:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: If the label looks familiar, congratulations, you're a hardcore follower (and thanks for playing along). We tried the winery's pinot grigio back in May with less than stellar results. Undaunted - and with the promise of expanding my horizons ever so slightly - Kerry (this Kerry) recommended I give the pinot noir a whirl. I've heard so much about it, what with so much of the family in Oregon and all, but never pulled the trigger. Until tonight. And it was a most curious experience. My first sip was syrupy and, to my palate, buttery, though that sensation diminished in a few subsequent tries. (A thankful revelation, since my wife seemed to think I was nuts to find that wine buttery. But it was.) The craziest thing was the mouthfeel; the wine danced around the tongue a little bit then, unexpectedly, it felt the whole damn thing had crystalized. That really caught me off guard. The wine smoothed out nicely after a few sips and it was a fairly interesting experience. "It's an acquired taste," Kerry said. And, down the line, I could see myself acquiring such a taste.

Do-over? N/A

Final Grade: N/A

Salmon Harbor Chardonnay '06

2008-11-23T01:03:00.003-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: That's our good friend Kerry holding the bottle of Salmon Harbor on a night in which we celebrate parts of the Northwest. (Please note that not every aspect of the Northwest was celebrated.) Despite the subject of the link - which we dare not mention - there were good times to be had, especially as Oregon State rallied itself past a very solid Arizona squad. See, Kerry's husband, Bill, is a huge huge huge Beaver fan; one needed only see his expression to tell whether OSU had gotten a first down or given up a sack. So, with all of that in mind, the Salmon Harbor helped ease the tension of what turned out to be a Beaver victory. The wine had a floral nose, flowery yet light, very inviting and attractive. The taste was a lush fruitiness, at least as much as one could expect from a chard; degree-wise, it's comparable to the superb Rock Rabbit, though that had a better taste all around. The level of fruit was comparable to a pinot grigio, yet those telltale characteristics were there, even if they faded into the background. The finish was dry and not incredible, but certainly something to be enjoyed.

Do-over? Count me in

Final Grade: B+

Banrock Station Chardonnay '07

2008-11-23T00:55:00.002-05:00

Country: Australia

Thoughts: I'm proud to say two similar - both solid picks - yet different chards top the list tonight. First, an offering from our friends down under. A floral nose with nice balance opened the drink; it wasn't too sweet, not too grapy, just comfortably pleasant. The taste was just on the cusp between light and moderate fruitiness; in other words, precisely what one would expect from a chard. The finish was also on the light side, but it was certainly there, though not an explosion - again, most likely what you'd expect from a chard. There's something to be said about wines that live up to the standard of what a grape should be. And while I don't pretend to be some expert on the grape generally - and particularly not how it's grown Down Under - I found this to be a very good example of what a chard, at least in my opinion, should be.

Do-over? I would have no problem with that

Final Grade: B+

Linden Late Harvest Vidal '04

2008-11-16T02:03:00.003-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Virginia

Thoughts: No, I didn't know what vidal was either; our friend Nate assured us it was a solid dessert wine. So, in my mind, there was no better way to finish off my wife's superb apple crisp than with a dessert wine. (Vidal blanc, Wiki says, is primarily a northern grape because it can deal with the winter cold. Oh, and it's also really sweet and thus makes a good dessert wine.) Indeed, it was; I've tread lightly through the dessert wine category before, most notably with a flop from Chadds Ford. But this one was different; I can't help but wonder if maybe the Chadds Ford got a bad rap because I didn't drink as it was supposed to be enjoyed - with dessert. Still, the Linden was solid. The sweetness was there, of course, with a little grapiness. It wasn't overpowering, but that may well could have been because my taste buds were already primed for sweetness. The finish was a nice fadeout that, by itself, was barely noticeable; yet somehow it seemed to be a fitting end to a fun night with friends.

Do-over? In the right circumstance, yes

Final Grade: B

Justin Isoceles '04

2008-11-16T01:38:00.004-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: It was a night of experimentation, as I took the plunge with not one, but two reds; unlike the last foray, this one had better results. I started off the night with one of the bottles we brought with us, the Drouhin Chard from France. That's always a favorite, as evidenced by the grade, but I wasn't feeling it tonight. So I moved on to a pre-dinner cocktail (OK, so it was just Jack on the rocks) and the steak dinner was offered with a choice of a straight cabernet sauvignon or a red blend. Knowing that I'd fared well with white blends, I went that route, the safe route. That led me to the Isoceles, which was intriguing enough alone. I was struck by the hint of mint in the nose; knowing little about reds, I was surprised to find such an aroma there. The taste was sturdy but not off-putting; there was none of the metallic taste (my guess would be the tannins) that doomed the cab I'd tried before. So it was a success, I made it through a good glass. After dinner and dessert (which included a vidal), we ventured outside and found an increasingly chilly atmosphere. But that was not enough to deter us from a round of cigars and some wonderful conversation. I can always count on Aaron to pick out a good smoke from his collection, and he gave me a wonderful mellow Avo 80th (though sadly, there's no reference to them on the website). We also threw back a decanter full of port, which seemed to be a red pinot grigio. It was fruity and a little heavier than your typical pinot, but one I'd definitely consider having again - though I never did get the vintner or the vintage. I don't think it's one I could do on a frequent basis, but I'd certainly be down for a do-over.
Ingredients: 79 percent cabernet sauvignon, 11 percent cabernet franc, 10 percent merlot
Do-over? N/A
Final Grade: N/A

Mâcon-Villages Cave du Lugny Chardonnay '06 (No. 125)

2008-11-11T23:18:00.003-05:00

Country: France

Thoughts: Why yes, that is Mike Rowe dropping by for another milestone. I wish it was excellent reaction by me and the camera phone; sadly, my cover is blown by the little box in the upper right of the screen. Indeed, risking sobriety merely for the sake of judging wines is a dirty job, yet I carry on. So this milestone was retrieved during the same outing that netted the wonderful Rock Rabbit; if anything, this one carried more pressure, as it was one of Whole Foods' top 10 wines while the Rock Rabbit simply stood among many in the USA white rack. To me, the designations were misplaced. The chard, and oh how I've come to appreciate the French chards, was solid but unspectacular. It led off with a flowery but barely noticeable nose; what followed was a light and wistful drink with honey notes that stayed - and even intensified a bit - through the finish. Halfway through the sample, i.e., glass, it turned a bit drier, though that didn't impact the drink in any way; it just changed the scope a little bit. So while it was a gentle enough drink, and certainly worth the price, it doesn't approach the Drouhin, it's a decent enough wine in its own right.

Do-over? Whole Foods is a lot closer than Total Wine, so yes

Final Grade: B

Menage a Trois '07

2008-11-11T22:38:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa
Thoughts: Thanks, as always, to my wonderful wife who assisted in photography (well, if what we do passes as photography). (I know you can't tell, but about 15 minutes lapsed between sentences here. I was going to make a reference to the current Ford commercials - can't find a link - with Denis Leary that say if you own a truck, it's probably not because you're a hand model. Given my wife's family's ties to Ford, it was apropos. Instead, YouTube only brought up Leary's old stand-up bits like this and this - NSFW for language, by the way - which distracted me. Smoke 'em if you got 'em!) Anyway, back to the wine, however un-Learyish it may be. The bouquet was sweet and grapy, but it faded quickly, so it was tough to figure out what else was there. Even after I let the drink sit for a few minutes, the nose barely registered. Once I swished the wine around the tongue, it came across sweet; it was my first drink of the night, so the first sip was appallingly sweet. Fortunately, it mellowed after that and became a nice, relaxing drink. The finish was there, but it barely had a pulse. In all, it scored well on the taste and above average on the compelling factor but considerably low on the adventure factor. Still, it's definitely a do-over.
Ingredients: The winery's Web site didn't list percentages, but ingredients include chardonnay, moscato and chenin blanc
Do-over? Soitenly
Final Grade: B

Welcome, Austria: Leo Hillinger Pinot Grigio '07

2008-11-08T23:52:00.003-05:00

Country: Austria

Thoughts: Ah, Austria, home of Viennese sausages and birthplace of our Governators, pictured above. Yes, I pulled up an Associated Press photo of California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, and he seems to be earnestly explaining some new policy. Really, instead of pounding on the lectern, I'd recommend an underhanded karate chop through the bottle... OK, it really wasn't that bad, but it was far from stellar. Come on, this is supposed to be pinot grigio; of all the wines I regularly check out, this is supposed to be the most lush, the most fruity and the most enchanting. This wasn't. It was flat and a little hot on the tongue; it even smelled more like a sauv than a pinot. Then again, maybe that's what a terroir of flat, eastern Austria brings; maybe something in the west, in the middle of the Alps, Innsbruck-ish, would have a little more character. Or maybe I'm just bitter about being sucked in by a cool-looking label (again) and, as it turned out, one cool-ass-looking building. So I'll make the promise again that no, I won't fall for a pretty label again. And in six weeks, I'll be back lamenting all over again.

Do-over? The magic 8-ball says: "Outlook not so good."

Final Grade: C

Election night special: Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay '05

2008-11-05T00:51:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa

Thoughts: Those of you that know me and know my wife understand why wine was needed on Tuesday night. This was the second of two for the evening and, frankly, it was unrealistic to expect a Mondavi to live up to the standard that the Rock Rabbit had set. Even some of the highest-rated wines here would've had difficulty with that. As it were, the Mondavi - and may God rest his soul - failed on its own merits. The nose was disappointing, dominated by a grapiness. I had hoped for something better once I took a sip, but nothing much came of it - too mellow. The finish was lightly buttery, but I've come to accept that even that's too much for my liking. Beyond that, there was little else to share. It was just kind of there, helping the night pass. But I demand much more from my wine; that's why this receives a low grade.

Do-over? Not unless I have a compelling reason

Final Grade: C

Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc '06

2008-11-05T00:38:00.007-05:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: Before tonight, I'd never been in Whole Foods before. My wife assured me that they had a good wine selection; so, in need of milk, I dropped by for the first time (and laughed heartily at the outrageous price for a gallon of organic two-percent milk). But while there, I saw this wine sitting in the USA section and decided to give it a go. At under $12, it certainly was the right price. And, I'm happy to say, it exceeded every expectation. As we've noted in several other sauvignon tests, there are certain characteristics that seem to run through the family: earthiness and minerality chief among them. But this one was different; the nose was fruity and fresh. So was the taste, which was mellow but surprisingly different. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't nearly as lush as even a typical pinot grigio; but it was light and refreshing, which many sauvignons are not. Moreover, the finish seemed to vary on each of the early sips; there was slight minerality, there was dryness, then there was just a fade that left you wanting for the next sip. In our grand experiment here, one of the hallmarks of a superb wine for me is a compelling taste, one that leaves you unable to wait for the next sip. This had it. And looking back among my highest-rated wines, this one would be a certain top-five pick and would likely crack the top three. A fantastic wine all around.

Do-over? I told my wife that if finances were not limited as they are, I would go back to Whole Foods and buy a case

Final Grade: A

Hogue Chardonnay '06

2008-11-02T23:51:00.002-05:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: I hit up Hogue's pinot grigio back during the in-laws' visit and came away impressed. So when a bottle of chardonnay turned up during my wife's recent visit to the store, I was ready to give this one a go, too. It didn't disappoint; it wasn't as spectacular as the pinot, but certainly not something I'd turn down if offered. As you can tell from the list at the right, chard is far and away the most frequented wine 'round these parts. So, while I'm no sommelier, I have a decent feel for them; this one was considerably different. In the nose, there were the certain characteristics that you expect from all chards, but this one had a little zestiness to it, almost like what I'd get from a sauvigon blanc, a hint of pine needles. Something outdoorsy like that. It carried over to the taste, too, much to its benefit. As we've mentioned time and again, the over-oaked and buttery chards are so tiresome; finding one that isn't is almost a bonus. And this wasn't; like the bouquet, that telltale chard taste hung around on the tongue but wasn't a bother. It was complemented well with a mellowy taste though, unfortunately, no other flavors that jumped out. A solid wine, but not a breakthrough.

Do-over? For the deal that Hogue's wines are, certainly

Final Grade: B

Wolf Blass Presidents Selection Chardonnay '06

2008-10-26T01:55:00.003-04:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: Yes, it bugs the hell out of me that the name isn't Wolf Blass President's Selection Chardonnay. Just writing "Presidents" has no meaning... unless they mean something else what what I'm seeing. Sorry for the aside, but these things gnaw at me. Earlier in the night, while my wife and I were watching Ohio State-Penn State, she casually referred to the Lions as "we." I patiently explained why that also bugged the hell out of me - we're not on the sideline, we're not a part of the team, therefore no "we." Her alma mater, the University of Washington? Cool, that's acceptable. So is "we" for Moravian, my alma mater (and a 23-17 win over Juniata today, I might add). But not for Penn State, who neither of us has a connection to. She just chalked it up to one of my foibles... but I digress. I went with an Australian chard because I felt like it would be a whole lot more doable than the oaky chards from California. And it was - to a degree. With an untested tongue, I got an incredible array of flavors from the first sip: a quickly-fading apple which complemented a chalky nose. The wine was doing well until it hit the back half of my tongue, when it seemed to turn insanely dry and lead to a crisp finish. Since it was my first drink of the night, I'm willing to chalk it up to an unready palate. Anyway, it was an adventurous first sip, which gives it a solid rating initially. The problem was that the adventure didn't hold up for very long; by the second glass, I felt like what I was drinking was wholly non-descript and unworthy of the praise I had previously given it. It was an OK wine - I've definitely had better and I've certainly had worse.
Do-over? Only for instances in which there is no other alternative
Final Grade: C+

Two Vines Columbia Crest White '06

2008-10-21T16:19:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington
Thoughts: I must say kudos to my in-laws, who picked out nothing but winners from the wine shop at Wegman's (which, I'm proud to say, they thought was a pretty sweet place). This was a curious blend - the ingredients are below - which made for a very sweet yet floral nose. As usual, the scent gave hints of what was to come: It was indeed sweet tasting, but not to the level of a dessert wine or even a riesling. I was hoping for a better counterbalance with some dryness; there was some, but it wasn't anything I would really call "dry." I know it sounds stupid, but I'm thinking terms of degrees here - like on one end there's your super sweet wines and on the other there's your super dry wines and somewhere there's a midpoint. The primary flavors in this wine weren't on the extreme end, but a few notches away. So while it was perfectly acceptable to me, it wasn't anything that thrilled me.
Ingredients: The percentages weren't listed, but it included chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon
Do-over? Yeah, I'd have no problem with that
Final Grade: B

Chateau St. Michelle Pinot Gris '07

2008-10-21T00:34:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: Yes, the wine joins an empty Gentleman Jack bottle - merely for effect. The nose on the wine (not the Gentleman Jack) was fruity and lush; the telltale citrus flavor was there, but so was a hint of pine needles - giving the fruitiness an unusual crispness. On the tongue, that lushness of fruit was still there, though it faded into the background a bit. Replacing it was a refreshing bit of honey. It mixed wonderfully with the citrus, which seemed to be closer to orange than anything. (And my deepest apologies for the gibberish that appeared last night, after I'd tried one too many wines.)

Do-over? Yes, I'd say so

Final Grade: B+

EDITED so that this entry sounds partially intelligible...

Antinori Champogrande Orvieto Classico '05

2008-10-21T00:26:00.005-04:00

Country: Italy

Thoughts: The region and the terroir came highly recommended by my astute in-laws. Not so long ago, they said, an Italian restaurant in Bend offered selections from Orvieto Classico, and that recommendation was good enough for me. First, though, a note on the wine: The label seemed to indicate it was a blend of locally available grapes, though it didn't specify which ones - for shame. Still, it was a quality drink; the best way I could describe it is like this: pinot grigio on steroids. The lushness, the citrusness of your typical pinot grigio seemed to be there - but it was somehow amplified. There seemed to be a caramel characteristic to it, particularly in the finish. Said finish held long and made for a satisfying end to this winner.

Do-over? Yup

Final Grade: A-

Heron Chardonnay '06

2008-10-19T07:59:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: It seems like there's a glut of highly-rated wines; there's a reason for it. With my in-laws picking up some selections for us, we're able to rely on what they've tried and what they've liked. When I'm buying, I'm mostly picking blindly, so there's a much better chance for a loser to slip in there. And this is another of those solid wines. The nose was oaky, hiding the fruitiness that abound when wine met tongue. There was fruitiness there, though it was pretty mellow at the same time. After a second or two of swishing it around, there was an odd sensation, almost like it was waxy. Obviously, it wasn't really waxy, but the mouthfeel was most unusual. Undaunted, I kept swirling and a dryness came in to play. The finish was mildly explosive, capping a solid wine indeed. (And yes, I chose the setting for the picture for the most immature of reasons. I can hear the Wheat Thins now: "Dude, are there any Twinkies around here?")

Do-over? Yup

Final Grade: A-

Hogue Pinot Grigio '07

2008-10-19T07:51:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: I've seen Hogue all over the place but never had much of a reason to try it; perhaps because I saw it all over the place was precisely the reason I didn't try it. But it got a healthy endorsement from the in-laws. "It's like a house wine for us," my father-in-law said. Indeed, it was pretty solid; it had all my favorite aspects of a pinot grigio - the fruitiness and the lushness - but it also seemed to have an underpinning of caramel as well. It was a very enjoyable drink and, if I remember right, the price is decent too. While the bigger bottles are more economical for us, I would have no problem with Hogue becoming our house wine, too.

Do-over? Certainly

Final Grade: B+

Soave La Cappuccina '07

2008-10-18T01:07:00.003-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: Bob, my father-in-law, seemed excited for me to try this Italian. It's not one I've heard of, but the back label said it was made of 100 percent garganega. Wiki says the grape can produce lemon, almond and spicy notes; I can't specifically remember any of those, but the nose was interesting in a floral sense. Like our other wine tonight, it had hints of oakiness - though not nearly as prominent as the viognier - and was also mellow and dry. The finish exacerbated the dryness, giving it a spritely feel as it went down the hatch. It was an interesting drink and it reminded me of a more hardy sort of chardonnay. At any rate, it was a good sipping wine and was easily enjoyable as the night closed by watching Boise State close out Hawaii.
Do-over? Yeah, I would say so
Final Grade: B+

Fess Parker Viognier '06

2008-10-18T00:57:00.004-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: It seems like time and again, I hit on the same varietals - chard, pinot grigio and maybe a couple others. Viognier's peen pretty under represented; this makes only the fourth one I've had in our grand experiment. Perhaps there's a reason for it: None of them have scored terribly high. But, always one to get back on the horse, we pushed forward with the Fess Parker offering, served up the by the folks at Restaurant 3. (Truth be told, our first option, a pinot blanc from Alsace, was sold out.) This was my father-in-law's pick, and it went nicely with the wonderful food at R3. In the nose and in taste, it had a defining oaky characteristic, not unlike one would expect to find with certain chardonnays. It certainly changed the wine profile on a larger scale, I thought; the oakiness helped make it a little more low key - mellow seemed too strong a description - with an underriding dryness. It was an excellent wine to sip, and made dinner and conversation all the more enjoyable.
Do-over? So far, it's the best of the viogniers, so yes
Final Grade: B+

Val do Sosego Albarino

2008-10-17T00:52:00.002-04:00

Country: Spain
Thoughts: Once again, I'm honored to have a guest: It's my mother-in-law, Chris, who gamely volunteered to be part of the blog. She's holding a bottle of our latest Albarino, which didn't seem to show any vintage. Usually that's a concern, but I had remembered having a good experience with albarino in the past (though, as usual, my memory was a little hazy). Still, I rushed headlong into the albarino, expecting good things; I was only mildly disappointed. The nose was entirely too grapy, like I was burying my nose into a quart of Welch's. Eventually the nose tilted toward floral, after my nostrils had flown the white surrender flag. The taste was fairly crisp and was reminiscent of a light chard; a light, sparkly finish completed the drink. Though this one won't rate high (and neither did the last one, if you clicked the link), I continue to see promise in albarino. I'm confident that one day, I'll find one that blows me away.
Do-over? Not unless this becomes the high-water mark in my quest for stunning albarino

Final Grade: B-

Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon '06

2008-10-17T00:41:00.005-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: OK, so it doesn't take a sommelier to know that I've departed from the norm here; I just want everyone to know that I try to keep an open mind about all wine. Yes, the secret is out: I tried a red. Oh, I've tried them before, but I've yet to find one that interests me enough to come back for more. So with my in-laws (wine-savvy in-laws at that) in for a visit, they tried this cab and pronounced it to be a good value and an excellent wine. I even had a bit myself, and tried the same process by which I've evaluated every wine on here. I only had a tiny bit; the nose was non-existent to me, though that very well could have been different with a full glass. The little nose I did get was musty, like an attic that hasn't been visited in more than a year. On the tongue, it was everything that had kept me from becoming a true believer in reds: sharp with a buttery aftertaste. I found zero complexity - again, possibly owing to my complete lack of experience - and a hard-edged, single flavor to it. I may yet stumble across a red that I can tolerate; but if this one - a wine hailed by people I trust - didn't do it for me, it's hard to imagine that there's one that will.
Do-over? N/A

Final Grade:N/A

3 Blind Moose Pinot Grigio '07

2008-10-05T23:30:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: I should have studied the label a little better. Instead, the humorous drawing caught my attention; dammit, when will I learn to not be influenced solely by the catchiness of the name? Anyway, the location on the label simply read California; even with most of the other California wines I've had on here, a more distinct location was noted: Sonoma County, Lake County, Mendocino County. Per AVA rules, a wine that lists a location must use a certain percentage of grapes from that location (say, 80 percent or so, possibly higher). California isn't an AVA by itself, of course; instead, one can assume that 3 Blind Moose gets its grapes from a number of sources around the state. From what I've read, this should be a warning sign of a lesser-quality wine; by using such a large assortment of grapes from heaven knows where, the characteristics of a region's vineyards - the terroir - is lost. I don't think I'm at that point yet, but I want to be able to see what's the difference between a Napa pinot and an Oregon pinot. By casting a net so wide, 3BM can't tell me that. And really, it showed up in the wine too; you all know my affection for pinot grigio, but the 3BM was wholly bland. The nose was light and indiscernible after just a few sips; the taste was lightly cirtusy with no depth or complexity. It was disappointing, but I should've known what I was getting myself into...
Do-over? No chance

Final Grade: C-

Barboursville Virginia Chardonnay '06

2008-10-04T20:59:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Virginia
Thoughts: In the past, we've had limited success with East Coast wines; the lone Virginia wine was less than a success. But I was willing to come back and try Virginia again, since Barboursville was the lone state winery represented in a massive Wine Spectator grading issue I had from several months back. The lesson being, for me anyway, is that if Wine Spectator judges it good enough to review, your damn right it's good enough for me to try. And I'm glad I did. Short of the Stags Leap, this was one of the best chards we've had the pleasure of trying. I remember the Picket Fence being strong and likeable, but I have to think this is even stronger. It was mellow, unoaked, and thoroughly enjoyable. It was crisp and dry, yet altogether drinkable. Really, it's hard to describe; other than to say that my wife - with a distinct West Coast bias - proclaimed it to be really good. We don't throw around A's very often, but this is most certainly in the discussion.
Do-over? Absolutely

Final Grade: A-

Trinchero Mary's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc '05

2008-10-04T20:49:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa
Thoughts: I knew this one was going to be interesting from the get-go. I opened the bottle and, with the cork a foot away from my nose, I caught a whiff of what the wine had in store. As I sat on the La-Z-Boy and contemplated football, life and wine, I had the glass better than two feet from my nose. From time to time, I got a whiff. So I knew the bouquet was going to be loud, and it didn't disappoint when I stuck my nose in the glass. Yet it was a mild nose; the sweetness that I caught from so far away was readily apparent. That sweetness held up in the taste; really, it was nothing like the typical sauvignon blanc: no earthiness, no minerality in any aspect of the wine. Instead, it was sweet that turned drier as the glass got emptier. Still, it was a rather enjoyable wine, and I had absolutely no problem going back for a second glass.
Do-over? When I'm looking for a different kind of sauvignon blanc
Final Grade: B+

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio '07

2008-09-30T22:52:00.002-04:00

Country: Italy

Thoughts: Whoo-hoo, pinot grigio, one of my favorites. And straight from the heartland. This one's gonna wipe up, right? Uh, not quite. Since its purchase from Total Wine, it enjoyed a nice cooling off process in the wine fridge, which is supposed to keep wine from getting too cold and, thus, muting the flavors and the aromas. Despite that, this wine suffered from just that. I damn near stuck my nose underwine - if you will - just for a glimpse of what was to come. After several attempts, I was able to latch onto a familiar aroma. But I shouldn't have to work that hard. On the tongue it was much the same; lots of tiny flavors floating around here and there, but nothing that jumped out. How, exactly, am I supposed to make a judgment on a wine that's barely perceptible? I mean, yeah, it was a pinot grigio, and I like those a lot. But the standard in that group is lush flavor, characteristics that have to fight to get your attention. In this one, had any flavor even been impish, that would have made it a standout. The weather outside when I tried this? We were under a tornado warning (fortunately we had little more than threatening thunder and lightning, a bit of rain and a soft breeze). That pronouncement commands your attention. Sadly, nothing about this wine did.

Do-over? Nope, better options are available

Final Grade: C

Misterio Chardonnay '07

2008-09-30T22:40:00.004-04:00

Country: Argentina

Thoughts: Of the 21 chards we've gone through, only five have been from outside the U.S. We're happy to make that six (and, at the same time, welcome the first Argentinian wine to the Trial); I even had the lede written (borrowing a newspaper term) before I tried the wine: Misterio, but really no mystery at all... But, as any sportswriter will attest, one of the worst things you can do is to write the lede in your head before you actually experience the story. So here they are, unrehearsed thoughts about the Misterio: The nose was floral, one could almost mistake it for a pinot grigio; and that, in my experience, was a welcome departure from the typical California chards; it only takes one whiff and you know what you're getting into. The taste was quite curious; on the front of the tongue, it was biting, almost acidic. Everywhere else, it was mellow and very subdued. The label claimed it was aged in oak, but it was hard to pick that out - as it was for most any other flavor. The finish was non-existent as well. My wife, in an anti-drinking state because of some recent maintenance at the dentist, tried it anyway and liked it. I did too, but felt like so much potential was unrealized.

Do-over? If it's on sale, sure, but it won't be a label I seek out

Final Grade: B

CK Mondavi Willow Springs Pinot Grigio '07

2008-09-28T01:16:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa

Thoughts: Obviously, we're about value here. The great majority of wines that we've gone over can be had for under $20; the few that aren't are a rare exception. So when you see the megasized jug like today's Mondavi - bought on sale by my wife - you may automatically think a lesser quality than, say, a smaller shop elsewhere in Napa. But we review each wine on its own merits; and if certain biases are brought beforehand, I do my best to make that clear. With no experience with Mondavi - that means any family member - we bring no biases here. (The only bias is with the sweet job I did installing our new dimmer, seen in the background. Borrowing a phrase from Elizabeth Barrett Browning: How domesticated am I? Let me count the ways...) Anyway, the wine spent the afternoon in the big fridge, so that may have lowered the volume on the nose - I found it to be very light and nearly impossible to pick out any distinct notes. It was equally mellow on the tongue, though hints of orange and vanilla popped up from time to time. Yes, the citrus is the hallmark of pinot grigio, but it really seemed to manifest itself in an orange flavor in this wine. Completing the theme, the finish was virtually unnoticeable as well. The character changed in the next few sips, as the wine seemed to get dryer. Though my wife said she was a fan, I - as often happens here - disagreed. It simply brought too little to the party.

Do-over? Maybe if it's on sale again - maybe

Final Grade: B-

Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay '07

2008-09-27T01:18:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: Maybe Sen. Barack Obama would like a glass of wine too. Actually, he was looking at debate moderator Jim Lehrer, but perhaps he was dreaming of a California chardonnay. And in this instance, I wouldn't recommend Wente to him. Really, the wine was like the first presidential debate on Friday night: Precisely what you'd expect and utterly forgettable. Both Obama and Sen. John McCain seemed glued to their talking points and unwilling to veer off them; the Wente was virtually no different than any number of other chardonnays I've tried. Both candidates reverted to tried and true campaign messages (McCain hammering on experience, Obama linking his rival to the current administration); the Wente was slightly buttery, moderately floral and slightly dry - ho hum. And neither's body language presented him as the picture of maturity, whether it was McCain's head-down approach as Obama talked or Obama's continuous interruptions; the Wente, meanwhile, was just good enough to make the pain of the debate a little more tolerable. On Friday night, neither man nor wine impressed.

Do-over? Nope

Final Grade: C

Thanks for stopping by, but... (UPDATED)

2008-09-21T10:50:00.004-04:00

Perhaps some of you are stopping by after one of the posts here (this one, in fact) was picked up and placed on the Reuters' Web site.

Clearly, however, something is amiss. The post was placed in the Personal Finance section; the only link between this and that is choosing to use some of that personal finance on wine.

This blog is picked by Blogburst, which redistributes our content to a wider audience via various mainstream outlets. As of Sunday morning, snippets of our posts have been accessed 1,462 times (led by the Chicago Sun-Times' 845 views). Six other people have viewed the page above.

It's out of my hands which outlets pick up our content and what they do with it. I have e-mailed Reuters at one of the general e-mail address to make them aware of the discrepancy but have not heard back.

So if you've arrived here in error, I apologize for pushing you onto a page you may not have wanted to see in the first place. But if wine is your thing, have a look around and feel free to let me know what you think.

-- UPDATE: I got an e-mail from Blogburst editor Daysha Taylor, who assures me that nothing on their end is broken. The problem, apparently, is that Reuters uses a 'contextual' search to identify Blogburst-affiliated blogs that would seem to fit that particular story; that was my hunch in the first place (and something I certainly should have noted earlier). I'm guessing my Barons Bourdeaux somehow caught Reuters' computers' attention; my guess is that it had something to do with Barrons, even though the two are spelled slightly differently. I hope this clears things up, as I had no intention of blaming Blogburst for the misplaced post. I know it isn't their fault.

J. Vidal Fleury Cotes du Rhone '06

2008-09-20T16:59:00.002-04:00

Country: France

Thoughts: Perhaps you've noticed the new feature to the right, down the page a little, which spells out what I'm looking for and what each of the grades mean. If not, go check it out. We'll be here when you get back. (Pause.) So this is another new one that we picked up on a recent Total Wine run; my wife was kind enough to pose the bottle in front of one of her birthday presents, even if the West Coast Huskies were enjoying a bye week. So this is a white rhone, with a decidedly German-looking label. And truly this was an adventurous wine, but not in the way I was expecting. Off the bat, the nose was intriguing, sweet and floral and soft but also, in a way, crisp (if all four of those things can co-exist in a single wine). On the tongue, it presented a dry front but, at times, came across sweet too, mostly on the back of the tongue. The finish was a trip at first, dry but fading into a long-lasting honey. At that point, I was debating whether to go A-minus; it would've been a tough sell for me - just a little too straightforward and the occasional sweetness was too fleeting - but I went over it in my head. As the glass went on - and this may purely be the fault of my own taste buds - the wine got dry and the other characteristics seemed to disappear. At that point, I was downgrading to a straight B. But toward the end of the glass, those fringe characteristics have seemed to reappear; so I'm settling on a B-plus, which is where it was originally. Phew.

Do-over? I would be OK with that

Final Grade: B+

(drumroll) No. 100: Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc '06

2008-09-19T00:12:00.012-04:00

And here we are. The century mark: achieved.
Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: Well, we made it. Every endeavor gets a fair amount of help along the way, but I'll save that for after the review here. This was the first wine of the night with Andrew and Rebecca, celebrating my wife's birthday. I was tasked to pick the first, and this was the only one that jumped out at me (well, others did, but they were over $45). We had decent enough success with the only other fume blanc out of the 100, so this seemed wholly appropriate. The nose was interesting - sweet and very grapy, like one would expect from a whiff of Welch's. As I tried to delve deeper, there seemed to be a hint of grassiness as well, but that seemed rather fleeting. The taste was an interesting dance; as I swirled and tried to get a feel for it, distinct tastes darted about too. "Was that caramel?" I wrote in my notes, as silly as it sounds. As an overall impression, it was fresh and melon-like with an intensely dry finish - though it toned down quickly in subsequent sips. It's hard to say this was the most exciting wine I've ever had, but I kept coming back to it. In that regard, the wine passes just fine.
Do-over? When I'm looking for a good fume blanc, whenever that might be
Final Grade: B+

-- ANYWAY, THANKS and gratitude go out to my wife, who got me hooked on this. May we share many more drinks together... You guys, for sticking it out with me even though sometimes I felt like I hadn't a clue what in the hell I was writing about... Special thanks to my brother-in-law, Mark, who has always been a valuable resource; and to Matt, my non-drinking friend who is always around for support... And big thanks to the bartenders and servers at our neighborhood haunts (tonight it was Carlyle, as you can see, but that also goes for our friends at Clyde's and the good folks at Portello's Winecafe in Bend). It was they who put up with my questions - would they mind if I just borrowed the bottle a second to snap a pic - in stride. Thanks to all of you; here's hoping we can find some more winners in the next hundred and beyond.

-- MILESTONES: I've also added a new tag, appropriately named Milestones. It's for pure fun, but it includes every 25th wine. I'll try to keep up with that as we move forward...

-- AND, LASTLY, it appears Blogger has moved this up in the order. If you can count, you realize I tried three wines on Saturday night; the fume blanc is the official No. 100, while the viognier was No. 101 and the chard was No. 102. I try to post in the exact order they were consumed and I'd prefer there not be any discrepancies.

Meridian Chardonnay '06

2008-09-19T00:12:00.010-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: We finished up Thursday night strong, getting back to one of our more familiar varietals. Like the viognier below, the Meridian Chard was also rather unique, though it had a much better upside, I thought, than the viognier. The nose was a new one, a light sort of mint hit my nose, like I held my nose above a pack of really nice smelling Halls. There was also another element to it that I debated in my head for several minutes; there seemed to be a chalkiness to the bouquet, too, strange as it may seem. The taste was unusual too, smooth and dry; the finish was almost tart and definitely crisp. I thought that this was a taste that would take some getting used to, and luckily the orientation didn't last long. It was an intriguing drink, if for no other reason than it was something different; anyone can make a chard and oak the hell out of it, I suppose. So when one crosses in front of you that steps out of the norm, you're forced to take notice.
Do-over? Yes, I would say so
Final Grade: B+

Longview Adelaide Hills Beau Sea Viognier '05

2008-09-19T00:12:00.007-04:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: Why yes, it was underserved grape night. Our first drink, as seen below, was the fume blanc (the second one listed here); there are only two other viogniers as well out of the now 101. This was an interesting wine, and not always in a good way. For some reason, my mind was thinking sweet when this one got ordered; my wife gently reminded me that that wasn't the case (must've been thinking riesling... hey, they both have lots of i's and e's). The nose was among the most interesting we've come across. It smelled fresh, like the aroma that hits you when you walk out to a dewey early morning. I think labeling it musty would be going a little far, but it did fall just short of that. On the tongue, it seemed rather one dimensional - and that one dimension wasn't all that alluring, either. There was a hint of something burnt, but that didn't stick around long. The finish was just kind of there.
Do-over? I'm certain we could find something better
Final Grade: C

Ovacion Verdejo-Viura '06

2008-09-16T23:19:00.003-04:00

Country: Spain
Thoughts: A quick lesson in two minor grapes (assuming you're OK believing what's on Wikipedia): Verdejo is a grape concentrated in the Rueda region of Spain, where this is from. It's supposed to be aromatic, soft and full-bodied; it imparts some characteristics that remind you of sauvignon blanc. Viuri - which has a bunch of names, including Macabeo, which is how its referred to on Wiki - is primarily a complimentary grape, used in a blend or to make "young white wines suitable for early consumption," the entry reads. Well, somewhere along the line, one of the grapes failed to do its job. The hints of sauvignon blanc came through in the nose, but it was more rough and tumble than an SB. The nose was powerful, and you couldn't get away from the fact that there was an intense oakiness, almost to the point that it smelled like something had burned. (I checked, and nothing had actually burned, thankfully.) For all its nosy bluster, the taste was light; I didn't even note what was in there. But as it started, so to it ended: The finish was stout, big and again rough and tumble. It was like a sauvignon on steroids. Maybe that's good for a wine trying to bench 550, but I prefer something more manageable.
Do-over? No thanks
Final Grade: D

And with that, we're one away from the big 1-0-0. We will celebrate appropriately when the time comes...

Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc '07

2008-09-16T23:00:00.005-04:00

Country: Chile
Thoughts: First off, I have to apologize for the photo; it was taken in a bar, after all. I'll keep the pic in my e-mail and maybe I can lighten it up at work tomorrow. Photoshop is a wonderful program... Anyway, I don't really recall why this jumped off the wine list at me. Maybe it was because Chile is represented by only four other wines on here (only Germany has fewer) or maybe it just reminded me of Big Sur and the days of my youth when I naively thought a kid from landlocked Pennsylvania could be a kick-ass surfer. I dunno. No matter the reason, I'm glad I took the chance. It had all the elements of your normal sauv, but it was big and in your face; it was impossible to overlook all that it had to offer. The nose was bold and dominated by grasses and pine needles, yet it wasn't overwhelming. The taste was a tour de force of citrus at first, but mellowed nicely. The finish was intense - in a similar way as when it hit the tongue - but faded to the same grassiness from which it began. It rated very high on the adventure scale and, thus, gets a high grade overall. The clear class of the field of the now 18 sauvignon blancs we've tried.
Do-over? Absolutely
Final Grade: A-

EDIT to add that Photoshop is a wonderful tool...

Caposaldo Pinot Grigio '07

2008-09-16T22:50:00.003-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: This was the wine I started off with, after the obligatory Yuengling, of course. (Though you all know I have taken this experiment seriously, I have yet to find a wine as dependable as our old friend Yuengling.) The nose on this was sweet, your usual hints of citrus came through. On the second attempt, it was noticeably musty; but I'm willing to chalk that up to some mistake I made. On the tongue it was pretty tropical (again, no surprise) but as I swished it around, it seemed to feel very light. The initial lushness faded quickly, and it turned a little too think for my liking. It mostly held together, though, and the finish was crisp - almost like what I'd expect from a sauvignon blanc. So while it was a typical pinot grigio - always good for me - I would've liked a little more weight, a little better mouthfeel.
Do-over? I could do either way
Final Grade: B-

Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay '06

2008-09-14T02:02:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Washington
Thoughts: Why, it's the lovely and talented Rebecca presenting the evening's wine. (In truth, I had a lot of wine, but all of them - except this one - have appeared before.) Rebecca and her husband, Andrew, came over for dinner tonight. This used to be a regular occurrence until the two of them moved back west to Phoenix. Luckily for us, they're in town this week, and we're able to share some time with them; how we do miss them, so I'm happy to enjoy as much of this week as possible. If I remember the chain of events correctly, my wife had passed along the link here to Rebecca, who shared it with Andrew. I asked which of them would want to appear in the blog, and Rebecca (was) gamely volunteered. Anyway, I picked this one up during wine shopping for tonight; it was a highly-rated selection (91 points, if you believe the little shelf cards at Total Wine) but at the very affordable price of under $15. The nose was fresh and gave little hints of flower and pine needles; but mostly it was light and challenging to get a full reading. On the tongue, it was light yet rather dry, moreso than many other chards (and there are a lot) on the list. The finish was slightly buttery - not enough to make me cringe - and again re-emphasized the dryness. Though it was a bit of a departure from the typical chard, it was a solid drink.
Do-over? Tough to beat the price
Final Grade: B+

Hanna Chardonnay '06

2008-09-06T20:23:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: How apropos. Hanna visited us twice today; for much of the day, she rained and blew and made for a rather ugly day. After she left, she returned in the form a very typical California chardonnay. But hey, at least the latter doesn't threaten damage to life and limb and does the very admirable job of getting me drunk. (And, while I'm thinking of it, I'm loving the idea of using our wireless network with a reliable and decidedly unshitty laptop. In terms of insta-blogging, there's nothing better. My old, POS laptop - a $300 eBay special - was far too clunky to enjoy in the living room.) Anyway, this had all the hallmarks of a typical California chardonnay but nothing to distinguish it from the others. The nose, taste and finish were all precisely what I'd expect from a well-oaked Cali chard. I really wish there was something more to it than that - you all know the joy I take in verbosity - but it's really kind of blah, with nothing that's remotely remarkable. This is chardonnay No. 18 (skip to :48) and there's really nothing I can detect that sets it apart in any way from any of the other 17. But, then again, it's getting me drunk at the end of a wet day, so I can't complain too much, can I?

Do-over? Can't see a reason for it

Final Grade: C+

-- UPCOMING MILESTONE: If you haven't been keeping count, this is wine No. 95 (:30). That means only five more until the century mark. We'll have something special when we hit 100, but I'm still deciding what that celebration will be.

As always, thanks for reading along!

Barons de Rothschild Lafite Bordeaux '06

2008-09-01T00:55:00.003-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: Fine, nitpickers, I realize that a white Bordeaux has nothing to do with Seattle Metro magazine or any of the 100 best wines of the Northwest (which really was only a boon to cab, pinot noir and syrah drinkers). But hey, I needed a different background. Luckily enough, the sentiment carries over as well. As one would expect from such a wine, it was a 60-40 blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc, and it shone brightly. I couldn't really grasp any sort of nose, which was a disappointment, so I had no clue as to what to expect. It started off really dry; I don't doubt that the wine I'd just finished had something to do with that. Despite that, it still had a semblance of balance to it and mellowed nicely as it got swished. It finished dry but not harshly; instead, it was more of a warm glow (and yes, nitpickers, I realize the difficulty of translating a visual into something tangible on the palette). But it was an excellent wine, one I'd have no problem picking up again. Though we couldn't remember, this selection may have come to us during a visit from Mark, my brother-in-law and new dad. (Let me also say publicly congrats to Mark and his wife, Maya, and may they rest assured that young Drake will never lack for sources of football knowledge). So, if this was Mark's pick, we owe him big-time. He got us a winner.
Ingredients: 60 percent semillon, 40 percent sauvignon blanc
Do-over? Yes, and we will be certain to toast our closest family in Idaho
Final Grade: A-

Spier Discover Sweet '07

2008-09-01T00:32:00.002-04:00

Country: South Africa
Thoughts: As noted in our previous stab at Spier, we stumbled upon the brand while touring through Total Wine a few months ago. We picked three that we liked; the chenin blanc earned a solid B. This one's a bit different; the name alone is confusing, but 'Discover' seems to be an offshoot of the regular Spier label (at least according to their site). So this is their sweet wine; it's a blend of some type, but the label didn't include the ingredients, the aforementioned site makes no reference to the '07 version of the wine and only the '04 vintage relays what's actually in there (Bukettraube and Weiser Riesling; the former isn't even spelled right, according to Wikipedia). So heaven only knows. Anyway, the nose was an unusual one, rather sugary - almost like if you'd take a hearty whiff of an open watermelon, but slightly more intense. The taste did quite a turnaround though, starting with a nice balance of sweet and dry; the more it swished around the back of my tongue, the more sweet it tasted. It went quite well with our pre-dinner crackers and bologna and, on the whole, was very drinkable. It fell short on the journey for me, however; though the dichotomy of the sweet/dry was the hallmark of the wine, it felt merely like they were representative flavors. I didn't feel encouraged to really try to figure out what the flavors were, as they only seemed to be sweet and dry. A major concern for our purposes here, but that shouldn't be taken as a slam.
Ingredients: Something sweet, something not quite as sweet and perhaps something else
Do-over? Sure; it's perfectly acceptable
Final Grade: B

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay '07

2008-08-24T00:10:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California (55 percent Monterey County, 45 percent Santa Barbara County)
Thoughts: Let's hope my fantasy draft turned out better than this clunker. (In case you're wondering, I landed: Peyton [keeper], Boldin [keeper], Turner, Houshmandzadeh, McFadden, Roddy White, Vernon Davis, Ray Rice, Eli, Minnesota's defense, Crayton, Owen Daniels, Phil Dawson, Reggie Brown, Sidney Rice and a flyer on Leinart.) As I've said before, I tend to stay away from the megawineries; but I thought, well, it's a Grand Reserve; that's got to be better than the standard offering, right? If that's true, I'd be afraid to try to the standard offering. It's a shame, too, because this 'un started off with such promise. A light, airy and slightly dry nose, almost restrained; mellow on the tongue, too, fruitiness here and there but nothing overwhelming. And then it hit me; the butteriness of certain chards that I so despise beat me about the head on finish. It was a sad ending to an otherwise laudable drink, and it caught me so offguard that I have no choice but to sink it. We'll kill off the bottle, sure - it's not like some of the piss we've had before - but no longer will it tempt me from its crate at Costco. Only its unfulfilled potential kept this wine from joining the "D" class - otherwise known as the Dreck class.
Do-over? Nope
Final Grade: C

d'Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne '07

2008-08-21T23:42:00.002-04:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: Naturally, one would have to be a little concerned about trying a wine named after a painfully shy crustacean. But it was offered to us as we went to visit our friends, Mac and Ronda (who, by the way, played a crucial role in our first-ever wine tasting; that experiment eventually became the project you see before you). We were checking in on the two of them and their one-month old son, Beau. All are well, we're happy to say. Back to the wine: What a curious blend this is. Despite limited experience with Viognier, we know enough that it's supposed to be sweet. After a quick run through the blends, we've never come across Marsanne, but ever-helpful Wikipedia comes through. The strange thing is that these two formed a wine that is about as close to sauvignon blanc as one would expect from a wine that's not sauvignon blanc. The earthiness is apparent in the nose and in taste; a little mineral and grassiness in the nose, a crispness in the taste. It did come across a bit sweeter than sauvignon - the Viognier coming through, no doubt - and the finish was a tad dryer. But really, it was a pleasant surprise that these two grapes came together in such a way; it would make for a nice twist in what would otherwise be a perfect setting for sauvignon blanc.
Ingredients: 52 percent Adelaide Viognier, 42 percent Marsanne
Do-over? I would certainly be willing to give it another go
Final Grade: B+

Ca Montini Pinot Grigio

2008-08-16T18:57:00.004-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: I've never seen this wine before; surely the riesling-type bottle would have jumped out to me, particularly if it were in the pinot grigio section (or, just as likely, my memory is going to hell). But it was offered to me at a Saturday afternoon baby shower, and who was I to decline? Our host even had a listing of internet comments, hinting at what was to come. The word that kept popping up in the comments was minerality, or some form thereof. And really, it was a spot on description; that flavor made it self known from the start, rather unusual from what one typically expects with a pinot. It played nicely into a nose that was fresh, not dissimilar from one would expect to smell on a spring morning (it sound stupid, but it's the best I can do with it). On the tongue, it seemed to be subtle, with only the minerality shining through; though I guessed - as it turned out, correctly - that a few glasses of King Estate had something to do with that (more on that in a sec). I rinsed out the glass and washed off my tongue; it was then that a more typical pinot profile. The mineral flavor remained, as did a surprising carmel finish. The nose may be reminiscent of spring, but it's a wine that would serve well all throughout the summer.
Do-over? Yes, I can see it in our future
Final Grade: B+

-- NOW, AS PROMISED: Another of the selections was the King Estate Pinot Gris from Oregon. I had originally given it a less-than-stellar review, but that was for the '06 vintage. On Saturday, I tried the '07, and the experience improved. The bouquet was virtually unnoticeable except for a few hints of vanilla. The taste was the biggest difference, coming through like your normal pinot gris/pinot grigio with dry underpinnings and a sparkly finish. Since the wine had already been reviewed, I felt it wise to only include the vintage update, not a completely new post. I'd be willing to give the newer vintage a boost, so give the '07 a straight B.

Bougrier Loire Valley Rose d'Anjou '07

2008-08-10T23:20:00.003-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: Look and sound familiar? It should. (If you're clicking the link, check the timestamp between this post and the linked one.) Same winemaker, same vintage, same appellation. In that last post, however, you'll recall I had a hell of a time trying to determine just what the AOC meant for an Anjou wine. Most of my Google results came up with references to Rose d'Anjou, though none really seemed to explain just which grapes make up this particular drink; Velvet Fog says one he tried was a blend of Grolleau and Gamay. So at least I may have figured that part out. Anyway, my version was pretty straightforward; strawberries stood out in an otherwise very light nose. They were in the taste too, but againin a light way. The finish was slightly louder - really, it seemed like a primal scream by comparison - and left a dry aftertaste. Kelly Magyarics, our Virginia neighbor, says that's what I should expect from such a wine. But it was too timid and one-dimensional for my liking. It was perfectly fine for someone used to abundant citrus in wine, but lacked greatly in the experience rating.
Do-over? Only if I can match it up with the extremely rare Cheverny Reddi-Wip '07
Final Grade: C+

Bougrier Loire Valley Anjou '07

2008-08-05T23:26:00.002-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: This time, the wine didn't fail. I did. Miserably so. First off, I had all my notes from the Sunday night tasting; yet here it is, Tuesday, and I'm only posting now. (In truth, it completely slipped my mind on Sunday; on Monday, I was barely awake enough to turn on the computer. But we all know what excuses are like...) On a second front, I failed to figure out just what the varietal is. The label lists the AOC as Anjou; but trying to pin down specifically what that means is more work than I'm in the mood for. Still, if we believe Terroir-France.com, it's either chenin blanc, sauvignon or chardonnay. It could be two of the three - I'm eliminating sauvignon because it didn't have any of the give-aways - but beyond that, I'm not sure. Anyway, the bouquet was crisp and sharp and attention-grabbing, aided by a fine fruitiness. On the tongue, it had some pinot-grigio-like citrus notes with a dry finish. It wasn't anything breathtaking, but a solid drink that definitely rates as a do-over.
Do-over? Only if I can figure out what the grape is
Final Grade: B

Greg Norman Chardonnay '05

2008-08-01T00:49:00.003-04:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: Welcome to our first Aussie chard. But really, it made sense; Greg Norman had an astounding second-place finish at the British Open and played quite well in a tournament after that, if I remember right. So it seemed the perfect time to give his wine a ride. The bouquet seemed to have a hint of mineral to it and some floweriness as well, all in a subtle but noticeable nose. When wine hit tongue, I discovered a slightly dry wine that was also plenty smooth. That one particular taste of chardonnay - the best I can do is liken it to what I imagine the color silver would taste like - only came through on the finish. It was a little surprising to find that telltale taste so late, but reassuring to find it was there. It remained quite dry throughout the taste, but that worked just fine for me. Very drinkable.
Do-over? If it's on sale, sure
Final Grade: B-

Chadds Ford Niagara '06

2008-08-01T00:37:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Pennsylvania
Thoughts: I know it's never going to happen, but I keep trying to prove to my wife that east coast wines are at least serviceable. That's how I arrived at this Chadds Ford offering; it's a Pennsylvania wine - in an area just west of Philly, unlike my hometown, which is well north - and one that had been rated in Wine Spectator. I picked it up a liquor store (those damn stringent rules in Pa.) during a recent trip home. But the truth is, I actually tried this wine several days ago. "Sweet and grapey Concord type white," the brief description reads on the Chadds Ford Web site. I can confirm that it is sweet and that it is grapey; waaaayyyy too much for my liking. I mentioned to my wife that if Glade had a grape bathroom scent, it would smell something like the nose on this one. The grapiness was overpowering, made worse by an undercurrent of sourness, almost like part of it had skunked. On the tongue it was syrupy sweet; too much for me a few days ago, too much for me this evening - even after a bit of ice cream. The taste clearly wasn't for me; beyond that, there was really no experience with the wine - though perhaps that's a function of being a dessert wine, as this is. But since it fails in that regard, combined with the unbearable sweetness, gives this a low grade. I swear, sweetheart, I'll keep trying. href="http://wine-trial.blogspot.com/2008/06/stags-leap-karia-chardonnay-05.html">
Do-over? Not a chance
Final Grade: D+

I Vigneti di Albino Armani Pinot Grigio '07

2008-07-27T23:04:00.003-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: OK, I realize it's not Italian bread in the pic; I just needed some sort of prop and felt like it would be a good excuse to celebrate our friends across the pond. So cheerio to our friends in Europe, both in Italy (represented by the wine) and France (represented by the bread which, yes, I realize is made in America by an American company. Let's not squabble about details). The long name isn't the only unusual thing about this pinot grigio. It lacked the fruitiness that we've had so many other times; instead, honey was the calling card of this one. It came through prominently in the bouquet, taste and finish. It made for an interesting twist, certainly, and my wife immediately became a fan (she even suggested a grade for it, one that was above what I'll rate it as). I wasn't sold, though: For all it was - and it surely was a good-tasting wine that would be wonderful on a humid summer day - it lacked greatly in my all-important experience factor. To me, the taste was one-dimensional, a point on which my wife and I agreed to disagree. There seemed to be precious little depth it, like a wine that went meekly into the night without anyone ever realizing it was gone. It was good for what it was, but I can't say it's something I'd ever actively seek out.
Do-over? When my wife's buying, well, yes
Final Grade: B-

Herding Cats '07

2008-07-27T22:51:00.002-04:00

Country: South Africa
Thoughts: Once again, I try to pick wines and not be influenced by the label. But my wife and I went shopping early Sunday morning, since one of us can't seem to sleep in any more because of the early waking hours these days. Anyway, my wife let me slip down the wine aisle - always a mistake - and I found rather slim pickings (it was a nice but very ordinary Safeway, after all). Still, this stood out; how could I not get it? We have enough trouble rounding up Hank for his twice-daily antibiotics (that's Grace in the photo, if you were wondering). If nothing else, the wine was apropos. That it happened to be an interesting blend made it a slam dunk. But the wine was mostly show, sadly. The nose was very dry and very nearly unappealing. The taste was likewise dry, a little chewy. Citrus undercurrents were noticeable, but they really didn't add much; instead, it was more the sourness that's common in all citrus fruits but without the sweetness that keeps us coming back to oranges and the like. The finish was non-existent. On the hole, it wasn't as bad as the nose implied it would be; but it certainly wasn't good enough to get again. At least Hank got his medicine eventually, so the night was hardly a total loss.
Ingredients: 80 percent chenin blanc, 20 percent chardonnay
Do-over? Just like herding cats, it was hard to corner a real strength to this wine. So, no.
Final Grade: C-

Kupelwieser Alto Adige Pinot Grigio

2008-07-23T23:34:00.003-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: Finally, a day of rest; Jim Zorn's a morning person and enjoys starting his practices at 8:30 a.m. I am not and I do not. But I have Thursday off, so I'll be able to sleep in - and what better way to celebrate than adding another wine to the list. (We're closing in on 100 already.) So on with it: I can't imagine I'm the only one who finds it odd that a wine from Italy is named Kupelwieser, a more German example than even my own last name - which is plenty German enough. The wine was just as odd, starting out with a nose dominated by smokiness. Not in an overpowering way, but it was clearly the dominant note. The taste was dry and mostly blah. On the first sip, I experienced something I thought I was done with - butteriness - on the finish. I shivered. Fortunately, it smoothed out and the butter finish disappeared after a few sips, but the experience, as a whole, was no better than when I started.
Do-over? Can't see it happening
Final Grade: C

Martin Ray Pinot Gris '06

2008-07-20T23:18:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California (Mendocino County)
Thoughts: Why yes, it is that time again - football season. The truth is, we'd planned on having some wine, as we typically do on a Sunday evening. But simply making it through the first day of training camp was cause for celebration (in case you haven't seen the news, there's this, then this, and finally this). Thankfully, Martin Ray came through with a spectacular finish to the day. The nose was fruity, as we'd expect from a pinot grigio/pinot gris, but this seemed bolder and more alive for some reason. I can't much put a finger on it, but it seemed enticing, moreso than others I've had. (Again, maybe that was the craziness of the day.) The taste was smooth and subtle; subdued seems too strong a word since the elements were apparent, but there was a quietness to the taste. It all came alive on the finish, light at first and then - beyond even my own expectation - the full burst of flavors I'd expected earlier. I thought maybe it was a one-sip thing, but the same phenomenon happened time and again, even as my glass neared emptiness. It sounds stupid even as I write it, but that's the best way I can describe it. It's easily the best wine I've had in over a month; it falls just short of the excellent Stags Leap.
Do-over? Absolutely; a great value
Final Grade: A

Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc '06

2008-07-15T23:12:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: In what may be a Wine Trial first, today's wine was proud to announce its grapes hailed from two different areas. It's tough to tell on the pic, but the label rather boldly states, "52 percent Lake County, 48 percent Mendocino County." Sadly, I'm not as well versed on my central Cali terroir, particularly as it relates to sauvignon blanc. But I do know this was a pretty interesting version: In the past, we've gone over all of those standard sauvignon blanc aromas - earthy, cat piss, on down the line. This was fruitier, though it was easy to pick out elements of its heritage. Taste-wise, I wasn't sold on the first sip - or on many of the follow-ups, either. The taste had elements of lemon, smokiness and grassiness, all while being dry. It was kind of an unusual combination - at least as far as I could tell - and it didn't strike me as anything great at first. But the more I kept at it, the more enjoyable it became. My original notes indicate that, perhaps, I was hasty in assigning it a B-. With that wrong righted, the wine gets adjusted upward.
Do-over? So long as I'll be in it for the long haul, when the taste smooths out.
Final Grade: B

Cloudline Pinot Gris '05

2008-07-08T16:01:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Oregon
Thoughts: During a stop-off at lunch on Tuesday, I had the chance to sample a new one at a nearby eatery (and thanks to the kind bartender who let me snap the pic). It had been entirely too long since I'd tried a wine from the fine state of Oregon; so when I saw a pinot gris on the list from there, I thought, what the hell. The nose was fruity, just what one would expect from a pinot gris/pinot grigio; nothing too unusual, though it was pretty mellow and inviting. It didn't prepare me for the first sip, when all I could do was think, 'whoa!' The flavors were loud and bold, coming through for someone with even a severe cold. Mellon, and especially cantaloupe, loudly announced its presence; even the dryness caught my attention. Yet it was all well-balanced and proportioned. Each of the flavors were kept in check by the others. The only criticism was a lack of a notable finish, which otherwise would've catapulted this one into the elite tier.
Do-over? WineSearcher.com says it doesn't come to D.C. retailers... balls! Otherwise, yes
Final Grade: A-

Now & Zen Wasabi White '06

2008-07-06T23:31:00.003-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: I've always had decent success with blended whites: of the 10 I've ever sampled for the purposes of this blog, only two came in lower than B- and half of the top four wines (A and A+) were blends. So the Wasabi White intrigued me, particularly since its primary ingredients are grapes that don't usually stand alone in a wine (unlike chardonnay or pinot grigio). So, with high hopes, I gave it a whirl. The nose was fruity and there seemed to be a hint of vanilla (my wife found lime, but it wasn't one I was able to pick out). The taste was mostly dry - puckeringly so on the first sip - and I caught some minerality as well. The finish was non-existent; I downed the first sip and waited for something to happen. Yet there were only crickets, and even I was stunned by the silence. What really doomed this wine for me was the fact that the more I drank it, the less I liked it. Except for the worst of wines, that was not something I'd ever experienced. The other aspect that troubled me was from the nose to the taste, I couldn't get past an undercurrent of soapiness, like part of a bar of Zest had been dropped in as a finishing agent. So it's with this lousy experience in mind that I can easily say I'll wash my hands of this wine.
Ingredients: 40 percent sylvaner, 30 percent pinot blanc, 15 percent riesling, 15 percent gewurztraminer
Do-over? A solid no
Final Grade: D

Kris Pinot Grigio '06

2008-07-06T00:14:00.003-04:00

Country: Italy
Thoughts: ~~For only the second time in the history of this blog, I was unable to secure a picture of the bottle.~~ That's because this sample came off a wine list at Sweetwater Tavern, which happened to be the same place I proposed to my wife and where we found ourselves - along with my mom and dad - on Saturday night. Given the success of the only other time we've been in this situation, Kris seemed like it would be a winner; not so, unfortunately. The nose was very muted, making it impossible for me to pick out any distinguishing characteristics - hell, any characteristics at all, really - but the wine had been chilled considerably, likely contributing to the problem. I caught faint whiffs of some pinot grigio-ness, but it was really hard to tell anything. (Yes, normally my nose isn't great, but at least I can pick out something.) The taste was quite lively at first, almost to the point of being overbearing. The telltale fruitiness was apparent, though it was overshadowed by a dryness - though not a mouth-puckering variety, it was enough to drown out any other flavors the wine may have offered. The dry finish was much more welcome, though it served merely as a bright finish to an otherwise dull wine. In truth, it had barely any characteristics of a pinot grigio and fell well short of the PG experience that I've come to enjoy.
Do-over? Nope - better alternatives available
Final Grade: C-

-- EDITED to add a picture taken during a fortuitous trip to World Market.

Spier Chenin Blanc '07

2008-06-29T23:25:00.003-04:00

Country: South Africa
Thoughts: Although most of the observations here are derived from first tastings, that's not the case for all; a few - like Spier here - were sampled beforehand. Total Wine happens to offer weekend tastings and, when we're in the neighborhood, we're only too happy to take them up on it. Usually it's a collection that's on sale, but Spier had its own little stand with just its own wines. So we plowed through the whites and came away with bottles of chenin blanc and a sweet wine, which will appear here when we get to it. With precious little experience with chenin - just this one, actually - it's hard to tell how close the Spier came to the ideal wine for this grape. At any rate, the nose was half fruity - hints of orange - while the other half gave a pretty strong indication of dryness; it was clearly the dominant part of the bouquet, and it nearly bordered on a sour-type smell. There were hints of earthiness as well. The dryness from the nose was mostly absent from the taste, however. When the wine first hit my tongue, the texture seemed almost syrupy, but thinned out as the tasting went on. The actual taste was in the same ballpark as a pinot grigio, though not as loud and bold. The finish was restrained and I didn't really notice anything until the wine was well down the hatch; at that point, a hint of caramel - of all things - took over. All together, it was an eminently drinkable wine; a smooth, mellow finish to a Sunday that pulled together elements of several other, more popular, wines.
Do-over? When I'm in the mood to relax - which is pretty much all the time
Final Grade: B

Honig Sauvignon Blanc '06

2008-06-27T23:03:00.002-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa
Thoughts: As I've mentioned before, one of life's pleasures - for me anyway - is cruising through Total Wine and finding highly-rated yet inexpensive wines. Honig happened to be one of those wines; good rating, low price. And it's been a little while since I messed with a sauvignon blanc, so what the hell. The nose, for me, was surprisingly light. Fruitiness was present, but I was more taken by a larger presence of sweetness than I would have expected. One ingredient that came through crystal clear was honey, making it considerably different than other sauvignons I've tried. But the taste didn't hold up; the mouthfeel was kind of light and a little sparkly, but as a whole, it failed to take me anywhere. The first sip was puckeringly dry, though it mellowed a bit as the glass went on. Still, the taste was just kind of there and didn't do much for me - not that it was terrible, but the experience was lacking considerably. I suppose I rate wines differently than the experts, who go by the 'ideal' of what a certain varietal should be. So it stood up as a fine example of sauvignon blanc, but just not a wine that took me anywhere I wasn't expecting.
Do-over? If options are limited
Final Grade: C+

Louis Latour White Burgundy 2006 (No. 75)

2008-06-15T01:30:00.004-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: OK, so I feel like a bit of a dunce. I've now come to realize that some of my reviews in the past have been mislabeled, particularly as it relates to French wines. I've been relying on the front of the label to tell me what the wine is; like in the past, I simply would have called this one Pouilly-Fuisse and moved on. But with age comes wisdom and I see the error of my ways; Pouilly-Fuisse is simply the appellation, not in any way indicative of what's actually in the bottle. Hey, you live and you learn. (I've gone back and edited a few where I could; there's one remaining - the Vouvray - that will be taken care of in the next few days.) On with it: This was an interesting wine, one that my wife and I agreed to disagree on. For me, the nose was rather grapy (for lack of a better term) that seemed to indicate some sparkle as well, like something gave me the hint I'd have a flavor or two pop out at me. But that wasn't the case; it was dry, dry, dry, almost incurring a degree of puckering on the first sip. My wife found that it mellowed nicely, but I didn't see that happening. My tongue got more used to it certainly, but it was hard to get past dryness. Its bite continued to the bottom of the glass.
Do-over? As a favor to my wife
Final Grade: C

Chateau de Nages Reserve '06

2008-06-13T00:52:00.003-04:00

Country: France
Thoughts: My wife and I had an interesting discussion about this wine. She thought it was yummy; I thought it was perfectly serviceable but left something to be desired. She told me what she liked, I told her what I liked. My problem, I said, was that there was precious little experience to the wine; it wasn't like any of the ones with an A grade. Her response was something like, "Well, of course not!" But the thing is, I grade all of these wines on the same scale. de Nages has its commendable qualities, but nothing that would cause me to seek it out. It's just fine for sipping on the deck on a comfortable summer night - as her and I did - but little more, in my opinion, can be said about it. At any rate, the particulars: the nose was quite reminiscent of a fruity pinot grigio, but the taste failed to impress. Sure, it was smooth and even and had that hint of pinot citrus, but the mouthfeel was a bit watery and the finish, while present, had a bit of a bite. Very middle of the road as far as I could tell.
Ingredients: 60 percent grenache blanc, 40 percent rousanne
Do-over? Eh
Final Grade: B-

Stags' Leap Karia Chardonnay '05

2008-06-08T02:07:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Napa
Thoughts: A wine such as this is typically beyond our price range. Yet it jumped out to me at Costco as a good celebration wine - we (and especially I) are celebrating the end of the prep sports season. That means I've got, oh, six weeks or so before Redskins camp begins (it happens early this year because they're playing in the Hall of Fame Game). Cripes... But I digress. What a great celebration wine this is; it's too pricey for us for everyday drinking, but I can't think of a better one for a special occasion. The bouquet was nice and relaxed; a smooth fruitiness with a hint of butter - so immediately, I had reservations. The taste was much the same: smooth with fruity notes jumping to the fore and a thankfully tame butter backdrop. It was nearly too mellow for me, but the whole thing came alive on the finish, making any shortcomings - no matter how minor - an old memory. Definitely a superior wine of those I've had so far.
Do-over? Absolutely - but when the occasion calls for it
Final Grade: A

The Lodge Hill Riesling '04

2008-06-07T01:02:00.005-04:00

Country: South Africa
Thoughts: Maybe it's just the late hour or the lack of sleep, but I'm not too high on any of the wines we sampled this evening. The nose was sweet (duh) but there was an undercurrent of oakiness. I was, however, expecting a little more sweetness - it's a riesling, after all. The wine itself wasn't horrible; but a largely unnoticeable taste beyond the oakiness provided a reason for pause. The grassy finish was an interesting way to end a sip - certainly something I'd not experienced before. It occurred to me that this wine would provide a superb reason for taking a break on a hot Sunday afternoon - as we're scheduled to have - still, like the one below it, it left something to be desired. It was drinkable, but I was hoping for a little better wine experience, if you know what I mean.
Do-over? On days like this - 91 degrees at 10:42 a.m. - it'd be hard to go wrong
Final Grade: C
-----
EDITED to make the thing semi-readable. I had considerable difficulty keeping myself awake while I typed this, so one of my goals for the day was to come back and re-read this to see if it made sense. I'm glad I did... I sounded like I was completely off the rocker.

Lindemans Bin 85 Pinot Grigio '07

2008-06-07T00:52:00.002-04:00

Country: Australia
Thoughts: You may recall Lindemans from our VPA special edition; but that was sauvignon blanc; this was pinot grigio. In addition, the bins were a full 10 slots away from each; though that's neither here nor there. At any rate, I guess I've finally learned my lesson with Lindemans; the sauvignon blanc wasn't much to write home about. This wasn't either. The nose held some sort of hint of dryness; it was hard to tell exactly what, however, because the bouquet as a whole had no discernible scents beyond the dryness. The only thing that save this wine from the realm of its brethren was that it actually tasted decent; there was a luscious citusness to it, almost to the point of being savory. I'd write about the finish too, if there were any palatable. This wine, for me, started off flat and did little in the rest of the areas to make up for the shortcomings. The potential was there - after all, it is all about taste - but, as one of my coaches once said, "You can take potential and 50 cents and walk into the field house and buy a soda." The Lindemans will have a Diet Coke, thanks.
Do-over? Nah
Final Grade: C-

Galen Glen Corkscrew Willow White

2008-06-02T00:32:00.003-04:00

Country: USA
Region: Pennsylvania
Thoughts: Remember back when? I tried two selections from the winery nearest to my hometown; the results were varied. The truth is, we were lucky enough to receive four bottles from Galen Glen from my dad, who went shopping for them some time ago. So this is the third of three bottles and I do hope that my hometown winery can do better. I didn't really know what to expect with this; its name gave no clue as to what to expect. So I figured what the hell, tonight was as good as any - particularly since my wife was focused on the Cavit that was was still in the fridge. Though I partook of the wine before dinner, clearly it was not meant for such a spot. The nose gave it away: sweet, sweet, sweet. It was hard trying to pick anything else out of the nose - beyond sweetness and grapiness, I noticed little - and the taste was no different: sweet, sweet, sweet with an occasional hint of dryness (which, in truth, bordered on rubbery). My wife killed it; she panned the thing from the beginning. I found it moderately tolerable, though she urged me to ditch the thing quickly and move on to something. (I did, eventually, bailing on the final 1/4 of the glass to break out some Dewar's.) Really, the nose got annoying after a while; all the sweetness there and the sweetness in the taste was just too overwhelming. As I've said before, I desperately want my hometown winery to succeed; but, in all truthfulness, they came up well short in this case.
Do-over? Nope
Final Grade: D