Chateau Coucheroy Pessac-Leognan '06

Country: France
Thoughts: This one was buried on the bottom row of the wine fridge. I don't know how it got lost down there and I don't remember buying it, but it seemed like a fine opportunity to give thanks for the chance to try and write about wine. Obviously there are more important things to be thankful for - a loving family, an incredible wife, a solid roof over our heads - and this is just one of many items. So thank you vintners and thank you technology! About this one: It's the rare wine you can smell from a mile away. I made no specific effort to get a whiff of the cork, it just happened; I didn't try to preview the nose when I brought the wine in from the kitchen, it just happened. So I did have a hint. When I went in for a closer inspection, the nose came alive with a strong dryness - so strong that I could only get one crack it before the sniffer was overwhelmed. On the tongue, it was smooth and the dryness from the nose held up; there was an undertone of grapiness, but it was moderate enough not to compete with the dryness. "It's like a mellow sauvignon blanc accented by a hint of sweetness," I wrote. There's good reason for that, I suppose, since the blend is mostly sauv with a little semillon for good measure. Before I started this grand experiment, I had a pre-formed idea of what a white wine would taste like; to me, this wine epitomizes that ideal. It's a solid drink and one I wouldn't hesitate to get again - if I remembered where I got it in the first place.
Ingredients: 90 percent sauvignon blanc, 10 percent semillon
Do-over? I would have no problem with that
Final Grade: B+

Covey Run Gewurztraminer '05

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: This wine sat in the fridge for a long time; it predated the fridge, I think. So I left it to my wife to pick out a wine, and this is what she came up with, a Washington gewurzwhateverthehellitis. Wiki comes through, as usual, to explain how this grape got its, uh, challenging name. And I, apparently mistaken, thought it was pronounced Gur-wurs-TRAM-in-er; my wife tells me it's Gur-Wurs-tra-MEEN-er. Not like I'm German and know how to sound out this stuff... Anyway, I don't know much about gewurztraminer, heretofore known as that grape, but I know it's on the sweeter end with rieslings. "It's a great apertif," my wife said, again showing that her considerable vocabulary skills. She said apertif as I was taking my first sip; in a moment of alliteration, my first thought was "apple." That's what came out to me in the wine; the nose was similar to your average pinot grigio, but the taste lacked that dominant citrus taste. What was left, then, seemed to be in the same ballpark as apple juice. So my wife was right, it'd be a fine pre-dinner drink; though I liked the taste, I bumped the grade down for a lack of adventurousness. Still, it was pretty solid and something new to me and to our grand experiment here.

Do-over? In the right situation, yes

Final Grade: B-

Black Mountain Pinot Noir '07

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: If the label looks familiar, congratulations, you're a hardcore follower (and thanks for playing along). We tried the winery's pinot grigio back in May with less than stellar results. Undaunted - and with the promise of expanding my horizons ever so slightly - Kerry (this Kerry) recommended I give the pinot noir a whirl. I've heard so much about it, what with so much of the family in Oregon and all, but never pulled the trigger. Until tonight. And it was a most curious experience. My first sip was syrupy and, to my palate, buttery, though that sensation diminished in a few subsequent tries. (A thankful revelation, since my wife seemed to think I was nuts to find that wine buttery. But it was.) The craziest thing was the mouthfeel; the wine danced around the tongue a little bit then, unexpectedly, it felt the whole damn thing had crystalized. That really caught me off guard. The wine smoothed out nicely after a few sips and it was a fairly interesting experience. "It's an acquired taste," Kerry said. And, down the line, I could see myself acquiring such a taste.

Do-over? N/A

Final Grade: N/A

Salmon Harbor Chardonnay '06

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: That's our good friend Kerry holding the bottle of Salmon Harbor on a night in which we celebrate parts of the Northwest. (Please note that not every aspect of the Northwest was celebrated.) Despite the subject of the link - which we dare not mention - there were good times to be had, especially as Oregon State rallied itself past a very solid Arizona squad. See, Kerry's husband, Bill, is a huge huge huge Beaver fan; one needed only see his expression to tell whether OSU had gotten a first down or given up a sack. So, with all of that in mind, the Salmon Harbor helped ease the tension of what turned out to be a Beaver victory. The wine had a floral nose, flowery yet light, very inviting and attractive. The taste was a lush fruitiness, at least as much as one could expect from a chard; degree-wise, it's comparable to the superb Rock Rabbit, though that had a better taste all around. The level of fruit was comparable to a pinot grigio, yet those telltale characteristics were there, even if they faded into the background. The finish was dry and not incredible, but certainly something to be enjoyed.

Do-over? Count me in

Final Grade: B+

Banrock Station Chardonnay '07

Country: Australia

Thoughts: I'm proud to say two similar - both solid picks - yet different chards top the list tonight. First, an offering from our friends down under. A floral nose with nice balance opened the drink; it wasn't too sweet, not too grapy, just comfortably pleasant. The taste was just on the cusp between light and moderate fruitiness; in other words, precisely what one would expect from a chard. The finish was also on the light side, but it was certainly there, though not an explosion - again, most likely what you'd expect from a chard. There's something to be said about wines that live up to the standard of what a grape should be. And while I don't pretend to be some expert on the grape generally - and particularly not how it's grown Down Under - I found this to be a very good example of what a chard, at least in my opinion, should be.

Do-over? I would have no problem with that

Final Grade: B+

Linden Late Harvest Vidal '04

Country: USA
Region: Virginia

Thoughts: No, I didn't know what vidal was either; our friend Nate assured us it was a solid dessert wine. So, in my mind, there was no better way to finish off my wife's superb apple crisp than with a dessert wine. (Vidal blanc, Wiki says, is primarily a northern grape because it can deal with the winter cold. Oh, and it's also really sweet and thus makes a good dessert wine.) Indeed, it was; I've tread lightly through the dessert wine category before, most notably with a flop from Chadds Ford. But this one was different; I can't help but wonder if maybe the Chadds Ford got a bad rap because I didn't drink as it was supposed to be enjoyed - with dessert. Still, the Linden was solid. The sweetness was there, of course, with a little grapiness. It wasn't overpowering, but that may well could have been because my taste buds were already primed for sweetness. The finish was a nice fadeout that, by itself, was barely noticeable; yet somehow it seemed to be a fitting end to a fun night with friends.

Do-over? In the right circumstance, yes

Final Grade: B

Justin Isoceles '04

Country: USA
Region: California
Thoughts: It was a night of experimentation, as I took the plunge with not one, but two reds; unlike the last foray, this one had better results. I started off the night with one of the bottles we brought with us, the Drouhin Chard from France. That's always a favorite, as evidenced by the grade, but I wasn't feeling it tonight. So I moved on to a pre-dinner cocktail (OK, so it was just Jack on the rocks) and the steak dinner was offered with a choice of a straight cabernet sauvignon or a red blend. Knowing that I'd fared well with white blends, I went that route, the safe route. That led me to the Isoceles, which was intriguing enough alone. I was struck by the hint of mint in the nose; knowing little about reds, I was surprised to find such an aroma there. The taste was sturdy but not off-putting; there was none of the metallic taste (my guess would be the tannins) that doomed the cab I'd tried before. So it was a success, I made it through a good glass. After dinner and dessert (which included a vidal), we ventured outside and found an increasingly chilly atmosphere. But that was not enough to deter us from a round of cigars and some wonderful conversation. I can always count on Aaron to pick out a good smoke from his collection, and he gave me a wonderful mellow Avo 80th (though sadly, there's no reference to them on the website). We also threw back a decanter full of port, which seemed to be a red pinot grigio. It was fruity and a little heavier than your typical pinot, but one I'd definitely consider having again - though I never did get the vintner or the vintage. I don't think it's one I could do on a frequent basis, but I'd certainly be down for a do-over.
Ingredients: 79 percent cabernet sauvignon, 11 percent cabernet franc, 10 percent merlot
Do-over? N/A
Final Grade: N/A

Mâcon-Villages Cave du Lugny Chardonnay '06 (No. 125)

Country: France

Thoughts: Why yes, that is Mike Rowe dropping by for another milestone. I wish it was excellent reaction by me and the camera phone; sadly, my cover is blown by the little box in the upper right of the screen. Indeed, risking sobriety merely for the sake of judging wines is a dirty job, yet I carry on. So this milestone was retrieved during the same outing that netted the wonderful Rock Rabbit; if anything, this one carried more pressure, as it was one of Whole Foods' top 10 wines while the Rock Rabbit simply stood among many in the USA white rack. To me, the designations were misplaced. The chard, and oh how I've come to appreciate the French chards, was solid but unspectacular. It led off with a flowery but barely noticeable nose; what followed was a light and wistful drink with honey notes that stayed - and even intensified a bit - through the finish. Halfway through the sample, i.e., glass, it turned a bit drier, though that didn't impact the drink in any way; it just changed the scope a little bit. So while it was a gentle enough drink, and certainly worth the price, it doesn't approach the Drouhin, it's a decent enough wine in its own right.

Do-over? Whole Foods is a lot closer than Total Wine, so yes

Final Grade: B

Menage a Trois '07

Country: USA
Region: Napa
Thoughts: Thanks, as always, to my wonderful wife who assisted in photography (well, if what we do passes as photography). (I know you can't tell, but about 15 minutes lapsed between sentences here. I was going to make a reference to the current Ford commercials - can't find a link - with Denis Leary that say if you own a truck, it's probably not because you're a hand model. Given my wife's family's ties to Ford, it was apropos. Instead, YouTube only brought up Leary's old stand-up bits like this and this - NSFW for language, by the way - which distracted me. Smoke 'em if you got 'em!) Anyway, back to the wine, however un-Learyish it may be. The bouquet was sweet and grapy, but it faded quickly, so it was tough to figure out what else was there. Even after I let the drink sit for a few minutes, the nose barely registered. Once I swished the wine around the tongue, it came across sweet; it was my first drink of the night, so the first sip was appallingly sweet. Fortunately, it mellowed after that and became a nice, relaxing drink. The finish was there, but it barely had a pulse. In all, it scored well on the taste and above average on the compelling factor but considerably low on the adventure factor. Still, it's definitely a do-over.
Ingredients: The winery's Web site didn't list percentages, but ingredients include chardonnay, moscato and chenin blanc
Do-over? Soitenly
Final Grade: B

Welcome, Austria: Leo Hillinger Pinot Grigio '07

Country: Austria

Thoughts: Ah, Austria, home of Viennese sausages and birthplace of our Governators, pictured above. Yes, I pulled up an Associated Press photo of California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, and he seems to be earnestly explaining some new policy. Really, instead of pounding on the lectern, I'd recommend an underhanded karate chop through the bottle... OK, it really wasn't that bad, but it was far from stellar. Come on, this is supposed to be pinot grigio; of all the wines I regularly check out, this is supposed to be the most lush, the most fruity and the most enchanting. This wasn't. It was flat and a little hot on the tongue; it even smelled more like a sauv than a pinot. Then again, maybe that's what a terroir of flat, eastern Austria brings; maybe something in the west, in the middle of the Alps, Innsbruck-ish, would have a little more character. Or maybe I'm just bitter about being sucked in by a cool-looking label (again) and, as it turned out, one cool-ass-looking building. So I'll make the promise again that no, I won't fall for a pretty label again. And in six weeks, I'll be back lamenting all over again.

Do-over? The magic 8-ball says: "Outlook not so good."

Final Grade: C

Election night special: Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay '05

Country: USA
Region: Napa

Thoughts: Those of you that know me and know my wife understand why wine was needed on Tuesday night. This was the second of two for the evening and, frankly, it was unrealistic to expect a Mondavi to live up to the standard that the Rock Rabbit had set. Even some of the highest-rated wines here would've had difficulty with that. As it were, the Mondavi - and may God rest his soul - failed on its own merits. The nose was disappointing, dominated by a grapiness. I had hoped for something better once I took a sip, but nothing much came of it - too mellow. The finish was lightly buttery, but I've come to accept that even that's too much for my liking. Beyond that, there was little else to share. It was just kind of there, helping the night pass. But I demand much more from my wine; that's why this receives a low grade.

Do-over? Not unless I have a compelling reason

Final Grade: C

Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc '06

Country: USA
Region: California

Thoughts: Before tonight, I'd never been in Whole Foods before. My wife assured me that they had a good wine selection; so, in need of milk, I dropped by for the first time (and laughed heartily at the outrageous price for a gallon of organic two-percent milk). But while there, I saw this wine sitting in the USA section and decided to give it a go. At under $12, it certainly was the right price. And, I'm happy to say, it exceeded every expectation. As we've noted in several other sauvignon tests, there are certain characteristics that seem to run through the family: earthiness and minerality chief among them. But this one was different; the nose was fruity and fresh. So was the taste, which was mellow but surprisingly different. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't nearly as lush as even a typical pinot grigio; but it was light and refreshing, which many sauvignons are not. Moreover, the finish seemed to vary on each of the early sips; there was slight minerality, there was dryness, then there was just a fade that left you wanting for the next sip. In our grand experiment here, one of the hallmarks of a superb wine for me is a compelling taste, one that leaves you unable to wait for the next sip. This had it. And looking back among my highest-rated wines, this one would be a certain top-five pick and would likely crack the top three. A fantastic wine all around.

Do-over? I told my wife that if finances were not limited as they are, I would go back to Whole Foods and buy a case

Final Grade: A

Hogue Chardonnay '06

Country: USA
Region: Washington

Thoughts: I hit up Hogue's pinot grigio back during the in-laws' visit and came away impressed. So when a bottle of chardonnay turned up during my wife's recent visit to the store, I was ready to give this one a go, too. It didn't disappoint; it wasn't as spectacular as the pinot, but certainly not something I'd turn down if offered. As you can tell from the list at the right, chard is far and away the most frequented wine 'round these parts. So, while I'm no sommelier, I have a decent feel for them; this one was considerably different. In the nose, there were the certain characteristics that you expect from all chards, but this one had a little zestiness to it, almost like what I'd get from a sauvigon blanc, a hint of pine needles. Something outdoorsy like that. It carried over to the taste, too, much to its benefit. As we've mentioned time and again, the over-oaked and buttery chards are so tiresome; finding one that isn't is almost a bonus. And this wasn't; like the bouquet, that telltale chard taste hung around on the tongue but wasn't a bother. It was complemented well with a mellowy taste though, unfortunately, no other flavors that jumped out. A solid wine, but not a breakthrough.

Do-over? For the deal that Hogue's wines are, certainly

Final Grade: B